Cam chain guide change

Frosty Rider

Turbocharged
Joined
Nov 24, 2016
Messages
777
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Ride
2010 R III T, 2020 R 3GT, 2001 HD CVO WideGlide
Good day, have a question, I think i know the answer but I could be wrong, wouldn't be a first, I have a broken cam chain guide, the one closest to the center of the engine opposite the one that has the cam chain tensioner, in order to change this, do I have to remove the valve cover and cams, or can I just remove the front engine cover remove that one and slip the replacement in, can I do this process with both? I haven't found anything specifically address this type of repair.
 
In my experience you have to remove the cylinder head to get that guide in or out.
How did you break the guide?
 
In my experience you have to remove the cylinder head to get that guide in or out.
How did you break the guide?
not sure, i went in to replace a broken detent spring, and seen a chunk of plastic sitting below the timing chain, and it was a piece off the bottom of the chain guide, i removed it and put everything back together, and ran the bike for months, it ran fine, although I figured I was going to blow the engine, good excuse for new cams and such, but I figured I should change it at some point, before something really serious happens, but I didn't think it involved removing the head,
 
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You can fish the guides up thru the front engine case. I've never done it with the chain still in but the head on and cams in yes. I would like to point out you probably with have to take the cam cover off to set or at least check the timing. I have pulled the cam cover without removing the throttle bodies. But if you are verse with lifting the throttle bodies up and hanging them from the left handle bar grip you don't have to remove the throttle cables. If you have a older bike you have the old style cam cover. It is easier to lift the cover and re-use the gasket. If it's a newer roadster you have to pay attention to the gasket and probably need a new gasket. I am concerned as to how the cheap plastic guide broke? Chain Slop is usually on the tensioner side. This makes me wonder about chain length verses tensioner drop.
 
You can fish the guides up thru the front engine case. I've never done it with the chain still in but the head on and cams in yes. I would like to point out you probably with have to take the cam cover off to set or at least check the timing. I have pulled the cam cover without removing the throttle bodies. But if you are verse with lifting the throttle bodies up and hanging them from the left handle bar grip you don't have to remove the throttle cables. If you have a older bike you have the old style cam cover. It is easier to lift the cover and re-use the gasket. If it's a newer roadster you have to pay attention to the gasket and probably need a new gasket. I am concerned as to how the cheap plastic guide broke? Chain Slop is usually on the tensioner side. This makes me wonder about chain length verses tensioner drop.
that is good news, it is a 2010 bike, and yea that really seemed like an odd part to break, but I don't mind taking the valve cover off, better than having to take the head off. I figured it would have been a good time to check the valve clearances, and change the spark plugs while I was there, I was going to change both guides, the timing chain, and was considering going with a manual chain tensioner
 
that is good news, it is a 2010 bike, and yea that really seemed like an odd part to break, but I don't mind taking the valve cover off, better than having to take the head off. I figured it would have been a good time to check the valve clearances, and change the spark plugs while I was there, I was going to change both guides, the timing chain, and was considering going with a manual chain tensioner
As long as you monitor it a manual tension will probably last longer because it has more adjustment. If I was switching over I would get one from Neville Lush!! I've had my hands on a few but none as nice or good as Nev's.
 
As long as you monitor it a manual tension will probably last longer because it has more adjustment. If I was switching over I would get one from Neville Lush!! I've had my hands on a few but none as nice or good as Nev's.

I have been wondering about this
So it does adjust beyond the 25 mm on the automatic adjuster . Do you know how much father and how do you go about setting it? Is it by feel ?
 
As long as you monitor it a manual tension will probably last longer because it has more adjustment. If I was switching over I would get one from Neville Lush!! I've had my hands on a few but none as nice or good as Nev's.
Thanks, i'll look into that, was sort of considering looking into his cams as well, since i would have the cover off anyway
 
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