Brighter headlights/Ignition switch bypassed.

HellFire

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Joined
Aug 16, 2008
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I installed that custom built wiring harness from the guy in Japan today. It uses two relays to bypass the ignition switch so that the lights run directly off the battery. I got the one where you can add a switch to turn off the low beams whenever you want.
It took about an hour to install and another 1/2 to make everything look factory.
I'm pretty impressed, works great ... headlights are bright WHITE now, no more of that yellowish look from lowered voltage. I expect it should help the new keyswitch last a little longer this time too. It's still daylight out, but I'll be riding it to work tonight in the dark and will have a better idea of how much it helped.
It was too tight a fit to put everything inside the housings like it was designed to be, so I changed things around a bit so that only the two bulb plugs stayed inside. The touring single lamp setup could probably take the extra stuff, but five plugs and two relays were too much for the duals.
So far I think it was money well spent.
 
Works fantastic ......

wow, another great mod worth every penny! Getting rid of the ignition switch resistance upped the juice enough to make the light totally white and bright as hell.
I don't care what fancy bulb you have right now, PIAA or whatever.... it can't be putting out the light it's fully capable of until you bypass the ignition. :eek:
I'll be sure to go with some PIAA's next time ... those should be blinding.
I'll admit it's a bit of a pain to install, but well worth the effort. Anyone with a little wiring experience shouldn't have too much difficulty, I would have taken pictures but photo's of black wiring harness's against a black bike frame wouldn't be much help. My advice for the duals is to take apart the plugs for the headlights, cut them out of the harness covering and route them outside the covers. Plug the new harness into either one of them and cover both with electrical tape then hide them behind the chrome covers in the tree. Take apart the new plugs and route them into the covers, put them back together and reassemble the headlights. Leave everything else outside including the relays (I wrapped them up in electrical tape together for weather proofing) and wire tie it all to the horn bracket out of the way. I ran the power lead along side the left frame cover behind the bear claw and filters to the battery. I've yet to install an on/off switch so that wire is tucked away with the power lead for now (I set it permanently on with a jumper wire) until I decide where I want the switch.
It all looks factory so you can't even tell it's been changed.
 
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