Brake light won't shut off

[Grumpy_Rocket]

Hello, I am stuck not being able to ride my rocket today, because the brakelight is stuck on. I disconnected both the the front and rear brake electrical connectors and the light stayed on. It shuts off when the key is shut off. I don't have a electrical manual for the bike yet, so if anyone has a online copy of it or can give me an idea of where the problem might be that would be great

 

[Grumpy_Rocket]

Also to double check, where is the rear brake switch located? What i disconnected was a 2 wire connector right behind the brake reservoir.

 

[kellyw1]

Don't want to scare you, but I took my new r3r (bought June 17) in for its first service with brake light staying on. Dealer was unable to fix problem and they're ordering a whole new wiring harness and 5 relays. One month just for the parts to get in on a brand new bike! Should? be ready by first week in August. Not sure if the dealer checked the rear brake light switch (as was found on another post) but it might be worth a try for you.
Talk about a new grumpy rocket owner!

 

[9Ball]

Don't want to scare you, but I took my new r3r (bought June 17) in for its first service with brake light staying on. Dealer was unable to fix problem and they're ordering a whole new wiring harness and 5 relays. One month just for the parts to get in on a brand new bike! Should? be ready by first week in August. Not sure if the dealer checked the rear brake light switch (as was found on another post) but it might be worth a try for you.
Talk about a new grumpy rocket owner!

Had the same brake light sticking on problem on my '07. Mine wasn't the harness, it was the hydraulic pressure switch that is bad. The switch is tucked up near the rear wheel at the end of the rear brake line. You have to remove the heat shield and drain the brake fluid to replace. It's tight in there unless you have a lift. I did mine on the ground and it was just a bit more difficult.

I bought the switch from Bikebandit (seem to remember it was around $30) and put it on myself, since the bike was long out of the 2 year warranty. You'll need to bleed the rear brakes after re-assembly and it takes a bit of effort to get all the air out due to the location of the switch. I use speedbleeders, but a mityvac or a large syringe with surgical tubing will do the job just fine.

 

[Grumpy_Rocket]

I looked at the wiring diagram, and can't figure out why the brake light would stay on with both front/rear brake light switches disconnected. I tested the bulb and that's fine. Sometimes when I turn the key on, the brake light is not on. when I squeeze the front brake it will turn on the brake light, but when I release the lever the light stays on.

I guess tomorrow I will buy a multimeter and test everything. I am sure the answer will be found...... I work 18 days straight on 12 hours, if I can't fix it I will just ride it to the dealer and have them screw with it. Ohh well

 

[9Ball]

I looked at the wiring diagram, and can't figure out why the brake light would stay on with both front/rear brake light switches disconnected. I tested the bulb and that's fine. Sometimes when I turn the key on, the brake light is not on. when I squeeze the front brake it will turn on the brake light, but when I release the lever the light stays on.

I guess tomorrow I will buy a multimeter and test everything. I am sure the answer will be found...... I work 18 days straight on 12 hours, if I can't fix it I will just ride it to the dealer and have them screw with it. Ohh well

Mine would go out when the bike was cold, but as soon as the exhaust was up to temp (and the rear brake is applied) the brake light would stay on continuously. The pressure switch is very close to the exhaust collector (cat bypass in my case) which is why they have a heat shield surrounding this assembly.

 

[Grumpy_Rocket]

The bike is a brand new 2011 (abs) with 1,200 miles on it. It is under warranty which is good.


I tested the wire going to the front and rear switches, and both leads have power to them at all times. That shouldn't be possible due to the fact that the switches are what should control power to the wire that powers the rear brake light. At somepoint there has to be a short that is sending power to the rear brake light.

 

[Grumpy_Rocket]

Yes that should be the plug I disconnected.


Something is definitely wrong. I am testing continuity between the yellow wire that goes to the rear tail light, and ground (with all bulbs on the circuit removed). Same thing between the ground wire and ground (as it should be). This is definitely going to be a complete wiring harness check and possible replacement. If I wasn't planning on pulling the engine and having work done I would be awfully pissed because I would be out of my bike for quite some time when I was planning on riding it.

 

[Grumpy_Rocket]

Problem was found. Talk about a pita... I noticed that once the purple green wire had power (which it shouldn't have with the brake switches removed) and I grounded that wire, the bulb would shut off. When I jumped the orange wire on the rear brake connector to the purple wire, the bulb would come on and stay on. Ground the purple wire and it would go out and stay off. That made absolutely no sense to me, since there is no energy storage device on that line.

Well I decided to go old school and wire up a little buzzer to the purple green wire and the ground. I started shaking the harnesses starting at the handlebar. Nothing, still buzzing. Then I went to the relay area on the right side, nothing. Then I grabbed and twisted the wire that runs to the rear brake switch. Bingo, the buzzer cut on and off, I knew right then there was a short in that wire. I pulled it out and low and behold, there was a hole outlined in white in the loom. I pull the wires through and they were melted together. I cut the bad part of the harness off, and I will be completely redoing the 2 wire harness tomorrow.

Either it chaffed through on the backsidE of the engine causing a short, or the heat in that area caused it (doubt it). I will be routing it better and using double wall sheathing+ wire with more sheathing. I will post pictures tomorrow since this could become a fairly common problem.

 

[Kmutt]

Problem was found. Talk about a pita... I noticed that once the purple green wire had power (which it shouldn't have with the brake switches removed) and I grounded that wire, the bulb would shut off. When I jumped the orange wire on the rear brake connector to the purple wire, the bulb would come on and stay on. Ground the purple wire and it would go out and stay off. That made absolutely no sense to me, since there is no energy storage device on that line.

Well I decided to go old school and wire up a little buzzer to the purple green wire and the ground. I started shaking the harnesses starting at the handlebar. Nothing, still buzzing. Then I went to the relay area on the right side, nothing. Then I grabbed and twisted the wire that runs to the rear brake switch. Bingo, the buzzer cut on and off, I knew right then there was a short in that wire. I pulled it out and low and behold, there was a hole outlined in white in the loom. I pull the wires through and they were melted together. I cut the bad part of the harness off, and I will be completely redoing the 2 wire harness tomorrow.

Either it chaffed through on the backsidE of the engine causing a short, or the heat in that area caused it (doubt it). I will be routing it better and using double wall sheathing+ wire with more sheathing. I will post pictures tomorrow since this could become a fairly common problem.

NIce find....persistence paid off......I hope you enjoy the first ride after fixing it!
Ride safe

mutt