Battery /Solenoid?

Blackthou

Nitrous
Joined
Nov 26, 2014
Messages
1,365
Location
Essex UK
Ride
2014 Black 'n' Red R3R. RamAir, Tors, DP Link pipe
Dear Captains,

Re my late 2014 Roadster.

I changed the oil just over a week ago. Went to fire the bike up afterwards and just got a firm click. As I hadn't fired up the Rocket for a couple of months (been working on and testing my old Bonnie) I wasn't too surprised. I put the battery on charge for a couple of hours, tried again and no difference. Repeated the charge and still no joy.

I thought the battery may have died but it was still showing well over 11v on an analogue meter. To cut a long story short I bought an Optimiser 4 and left that hooked up for a few days. Indications were all was well but when I tried to start her still a click and not turning over. Hooked her (jump leads) up to my car. She was hesitant on turning over - it seemed a while after pressing the button before she turned over and fired. Left her running for 10 mins. Turned her off. waited a few minutes and retried, again click then nothing. Put her back on the Optimiser and left her for the rest of the week.

Anyway I decided to get a new battery but before I fitted it I came across the thread re the solenoid. I thought that had to be it. Today I removed the starter motor and took the end cover off the solenoid. I had expected pitting and burning from what I read but all looked good. Never-the-less I removed the contacts and cleaned them, dressed the copper ring and carefully reassembled everything to make sure it was square and true. I then rotated the central piston several times to check for witness marks on the contacts. All looked good. I removed and cleaned the nuts on the terminals and the ends of the cables. Reassembled the unit back onto the bike. Checked, cleaned and refitted the battery cables. The battery voltage was 12.75v.

I went to fire her up and still click and no rotation. Wheeled her out, hooked her up to my car again and after a pause from pressing the starter button she turned over and fired up. Let her run for a few minutes, turned her off and tried a restart while hooked to my car again. There was the same pause before she turned over and fired. This time I let her run for about 10 minutes. Tried her on the button, half a revolution then click. The voltage had dropped to 12.3v but after a few minutes was back up to 12.6v.

What do you all think? I haven't tried the new battery yet in case that wasn't it and I could return it.Is it simply the battery has failed?

Jump starting works but after some hesitation. Could that be because the bike's battery is duff and that's sapping some power from my car and causing the delay?

I noticed the oil is about 3mm over the maximum mark. Could that have any relevance? I don't think it will because as I say she jump starts but thought I'd mention it.


Cheers

Rick
 
Dear Captains,

Re my late 2014 Roadster.

I changed the oil just over a week ago. Went to fire the bike up afterwards and just got a firm click. As I hadn't fired up the Rocket for a couple of months (been working on and testing my old Bonnie) I wasn't too surprised. I put the battery on charge for a couple of hours, tried again and no difference. Repeated the charge and still no joy.

I thought the battery may have died but it was still showing well over 11v on an analogue meter. To cut a long story short I bought an Optimiser 4 and left that hooked up for a few days. Indications were all was well but when I tried to start her still a click and not turning over. Hooked her (jump leads) up to my car. She was hesitant on turning over - it seemed a while after pressing the button before she turned over and fired. Left her running for 10 mins. Turned her off. waited a few minutes and retried, again click then nothing. Put her back on the Optimiser and left her for the rest of the week.

Anyway I decided to get a new battery but before I fitted it I came across the thread re the solenoid. I thought that had to be it. Today I removed the starter motor and took the end cover off the solenoid. I had expected pitting and burning from what I read but all looked good. Never-the-less I removed the contacts and cleaned them, dressed the copper ring and carefully reassembled everything to make sure it was square and true. I then rotated the central piston several times to check for witness marks on the contacts. All looked good. I removed and cleaned the nuts on the terminals and the ends of the cables. Reassembled the unit back onto the bike. Checked, cleaned and refitted the battery cables. The battery voltage was 12.75v.

I went to fire her up and still click and no rotation. Wheeled her out, hooked her up to my car again and after a pause from pressing the starter button she turned over and fired up. Let her run for a few minutes, turned her off and tried a restart while hooked to my car again. There was the same pause before she turned over and fired. This time I let her run for about 10 minutes. Tried her on the button, half a revolution then click. The voltage had dropped to 12.3v but after a few minutes was back up to 12.6v.

What do you all think? I haven't tried the new battery yet in case that wasn't it and I could return it.Is it simply the battery has failed?

Jump starting works but after some hesitation. Could that be because the bike's battery is duff and that's sapping some power from my car and causing the delay?

I noticed the oil is about 3mm over the maximum mark. Could that have any relevance? I don't think it will because as I say she jump starts but thought I'd mention it.


Cheers

Rick

Sounds like the battery’s had it Rick, I’ve had batteries showing that they’re taking a charge yet won’t hold it or start the engine, think if you let the battery run too low it seems to cause irreparable damage to the cells?
 
That was my first thoughts but the Optimser is supposed to be able to save anything with over 0.5v in it. It analyses and pulses to remove the sulphur cyrstals from the plates to rejuvinate. It indicated it had done so and the battery holds its charge but doesn't seem to have the guts to fire up the engine.

 
Battery has dropped a cell. Once a cell collapses the battery effectively looses it's ability to produce the current required to turn the engine over. Rrcently had a calcium battery with the sight glass showing green (battery good) and voltage was over 12.5 but was actually stuffed. The sight glass was on a cell that hadn't collapsed.
 
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Battery has dropped a cell. Once a cell collapses the battery effectively looses it's ability to produce the current required to turn the engine over. Rrcently had a calcium battery with the sight glass showing green (battery good) and voltage was over 12.5 but was actually stuffed. The sight glass was on a cell that hadn't collapsed.


Have exactly the same scenario on my wife’s car , green window indicates all’s well and reads 12.7 volts yet dead as the proverbial Dodo!
 
Id say before you buy anything, id remove the battery and have it tested. Im sure there is an automotive parts place near you, they should be able to test under load.

Battery voltage is not an indicator of battery health.
 
... Im sure there is an automotive parts place near you, they should be able to test under load.

Turning on the lights IS a load test - without removing it!

Battery voltage is not an indicator of battery health.
It is if you measure while it's connected to a significant load - e.g. headlights
 
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