Another oil change question 2012 R3R

Kevm

.040 Over
Joined
May 28, 2016
Messages
71
Location
Derbyshire, UK
Ride
2012 Roadster
Despite reading the manual, instead of the drain bolts I removed one of other two smaller plugs in the sump. It did a pretty good job of draining the crankcase. I assume this is not a problem; I can just refit it, maybe with some thread lock? I can't find the torque setting in the manual so I was thinking 25NM like the proper drain bolts?

BTW I don't know which mouth breather fitted the filter as was a compete pain to remove. The proper filter socket or a chain wrench couldn't budge it. In the end I drilled a 1/2 inch hole through it and used a bar; even then it wasn't easy.
 
Drilled a 1/2" hole and inserted a bar? Very civilised Kev...I shoved a ***off huge flat-blade screwdriver through mine and yanked it off...and like you it was still an arse-pain to get off...and 25Nm is bang on for those hex heads that AREN'T the oil drain plugs.
 
Thanks for that, all done now.

I usually get by in the garage with a hammer, a screwdriver and a pair of mole grips but I just got a new drill and wanted to try it out.;)
 
I presume you know this but other non mechanically minded owners may not.
There are separate drain plugs for crankcase residual oil and oil tank/lines to main oiltank etc. No point just draining the dry sump crankcase most of the old oil is still in the oiltank and return lines etc.
There are two different plug bolt sizes and crush washers to suit.

It is often messy when you have to use a screwdriver through filter but at least it plugs most of the hole, drilling a big hole through before using a bar must be very messy. I use a set of pump pliers and crush them into the thin sheet metal to get a good grip with small filters like the Rocket's. Use the K&N ones with hex nut shaped knob at front for future easy removal.
 
I presume you know this but other non mechanically minded owners may not.
There are separate drain plugs for crankcase residual oil and oil tank/lines to main oiltank etc. No point just draining the dry sump crankcase most of the old oil is still in the oiltank and return lines etc.
There are two different plug bolt sizes and crush washers to suit.

It is often messy when you have to use a screwdriver through filter but at least it plugs most of the hole, drilling a big hole through before using a bar must be very messy. I use a set of pump pliers and crush them into the thin sheet metal to get a good grip with small filters like the Rocket's. Use the K&N ones with hex nut shaped knob at front for future easy removal.

Then 25Nm torque for each plug to tighten and only 10Nm for the filter or about hand tight for a reasonably strong Aussie:cool::cool:
 
Then 25Nm torque for each plug to tighten and only 10Nm for the filter or about hand tight for a reasonably strong Aussie:cool::cool:

Old school rule of thumb was turn until rubber seal contacts the housing then a quarter turn of the filter to tighten...I've never had leak...

....and while we're at it...stop putting wheel nuts on with rattle guns?!!?!!%##$!?

Trying to teach my daughter to change car wheels a while back and had to get my rattler out to get em off after I'd had new tyres fitted :mad:
 
Old school rule of thumb was turn until rubber seal contacts the housing then a quarter turn of the filter to tighten...I've never had leak...

....and while we're at it...stop putting wheel nuts on with rattle guns?!!?!!%##$!?

Trying to teach my daughter to change car wheels a while back and had to get my rattler out to get em off after I'd had new tyres fitted :mad:


I've bent a few X braces and straight shaft wheel braces in my time and even snapped the weld on a an X brace once. 150Kg of me w/o involving feet helps defeats rattle gunned wheel nuts ;):D:roll::roll::roll::roll:
 
Old school rule of thumb was turn until rubber seal contacts the housing then a quarter turn of the filter to tighten...I've never had leak...

....and while we're at it...stop putting wheel nuts on with rattle guns?!!?!!%##$!?

Trying to teach my daughter to change car wheels a while back and had to get my rattler out to get em off after I'd had new tyres fitted :mad:

This can happen when the tyre fitter tightens the wheel nuts with a air operated torque wrench,he may have just installed a wheel on a 4x4 and not reset the torque setting to suit the car ,worse still some wheel lug nuts on a truck ,on our trucks we tension the lug nuts to 475 Ftlbs/500Ftlbs about 4 times the tension on a teeny weeny light vehicle wheel nut, try undoing those suckers with a 4 way brace ,you need a 1metre cheater bar to loosen them
 
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