Another **** LED Flasher thread...

[WyldCFH]

Ok, so I've got no working flasher issues

4x 2x 1156 BA15S New High Power 2835 Amber Yellow Turn Signal Corner LED Light Bulb _trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#rpdCntId

1x CF13-GL02 LED Flasher Relay Fix Hyper Flash Turn Signal Decoder Load Equalizers


I've tried the following...

Only putting the LEDs in the front - no flashers at all, relay clicks
All 4 LEDs - no working flashers, relay clicks
I've put the 4 incandescent bulbs in with the are relay - all work
Switched the orange and black wires in the relay connector - nothing, not even clicks from the relay


So basically, i need some help from the electrical gurus around here with the promise of a few shots of the poison of your choice if we ever cross paths.

 

[DEcosse]

Return the relay socket wiring to its std

1. Does the Relay definitely say CF13GL-02 (not JL)
2. Put OEM bulbs back in - just rear is fine - do they flash with the new relay? If not then relay is no good.
3. If it flashed at step 2, then install the LEDs in the front - now what - all 4 flash or just the rears still?

 

[WyldCFH]

Return the relay socket wiring to its std

1. Does the Relay definitely say CF13GL-02 (not JL)
2. Put OEM bulbs back in - just rear is fine - do they flash with the new relay? If not then relay is no good.
3. If it flashed at step 2, then install the LEDs in the front - now what - all 4 flash or just the rears still?

Wiring was returned after I got nothing from LEDs or oem bulbs.

1. CF13 GL-02
2. No flashing with any LED bulbs in, 2 or 4, doesn't matter location

 

[WyldCFH]

Just put the oem flasher in and tried the LEDs in the front only. Rears flashed, front did nothing.

 

[DEcosse]

I suggested you check the new flasher with oem bulbs - that was test 2

Test your led bulbs- touch the centre electrode to battery positive and touch a wire connected to battery negative to the lamp body

 

[WyldCFH]

Sorry, I must not have clarified well. All the testing before posting for help was with the new relay, and included just LEDs in the front with incandescent in the rear

After your post I tried with the original relay

 

[EasTexRIII]

I hope this isn't because I'm just reading this wrong, but.....
In another thread I told you to reverse the wires & you said you did. I just read your OP hear & you say you switched orange & black "in the connector" - that is not where I meant to reverse the wires. I meant reverse the wires at the bulb socket. Did you try that?

 

[cr0ft]

Triumph hasn't really bothered with getting polarity right inside the indicators. For normal glowy light bulbs, it doesn't matter which way the power goes through them, the wire starts glowing regardless. So they just bunged in the wires and called it a day. Heck, on my Touring, all the wires going back there are black and silver, and then someone haphazardly strapped some red tape around one pair to indicate which side they go to...

I'd suggest you get a multimeter (you can buy cheapo ones for literally just a few bucks in any auto parts type store or off Amazon) and actually measure them. Take the glass off and the bulbs out of the indicators and expose the connectors.

Connect one multimeter cable to the bike frame, some exposed metal where you get a ground connection (like a bolt), and then measure which of the connectors inside the indicator actually give you zero resistance. That's your ground/negative. If the negative is in the wrong place, pull the reflector out (assuming it's like my Touring at all) and switch the cables behind the reflector around.

 

[EasTexRIII]

Triumph hasn't really bothered with getting polarity right inside the indicators. For normal glowy light bulbs, it doesn't matter which way the power goes through them, the wire starts glowing regardless. So they just bunged in the wires and called it a day. Heck, on my Touring, all the wires going back there are black and silver, and then someone haphazardly strapped some red tape around one pair to indicate which side they go to...

I'd suggest you get a multimeter (you can buy cheapo ones for literally just a few bucks in any auto parts type store or off Amazon) and actually measure them. Take the glass off and the bulbs out of the indicators and expose the connectors.

Connect one multimeter cable to the bike frame, some exposed metal where you get a ground connection (like a bolt), and then measure which of the connectors inside the indicator actually give you zero resistance. That's your ground/negative. If the negative is in the wrong place, pull the reflector out (assuming it's like my Touring at all) and switch the cables behind the reflector around.

Yes, the roadster reflector also has to be slid out to switch the wires. You have to turn the reflector inside the housing to line up the tabs so that it will slip out...... A lot easier than it sounds

 

[WyldCFH]

All is done and working.

All 4 wires were reversed even though they looked correct. The Black wires were on the ground pole and the white were on the hot pole.

After testing the first two with the meter, the white was ground and the black is hot. Switched all 4 and they magically all work now.


Thanks folks, looks like I owe the 3 of you some shots...