Leak at clutch lifter shaft

Might try screwing a drywall screw into seal, they have a sharp point to penetrate easier.
Yes or 90 degree pick.
KTI70073.jpg


I believe you can remove the old one with the liftershaft arm still on.
 
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Yes or 90 degree pick.
KTI70073.jpg


I nelieve you can remove the old one with the liftershaft arm still on.
I removed the clutch arm and screwed a drywall screw into seal, and used vice-grips to pull straight up, and seal came out. Seal # Triumph T3600095 and put new seal in freezer for day or two. Pushed in with deep-well socket and tape on shaft spline. Put white lube on shaft before pushing seal in place
 
Glad you got it sorted. Why the comment that the Rebands were a mistake? Also, how did the bike sound with and without the baffled insert? And you can normally severely restrict exhaust flow to the point the motor will barely run and still have minimal crankcase pressure. I do believe the culprit in your case was the Moroso check valve.

Good dyno tuning takes a lot of time. It is really easy to get WOT at some desired number, but a whole different story to get the bike to run and cruise right at most speeds and throttle openings. The ignition timing comes into play as well. In my world, 1000's of dyno hours are spent on this while still meeting emission standards.

Thanks for the input Speedy, I’ve come to pay attention to your comments, I think you are knowledgeable. The Reband were most expensive between Carpenter, Viking and CES, which was OK if the quality was there, It wasn’t. Mounting tabs and nuts were misaligned and had to be cut off and moved. No way to get the heat shield mounted without cutting off and relocating nuts. The headers are improperly bent and will not align with the head when placed in the collector, the welds are a shabby dob and stick mess frequently left unground. All 3 of the joints between the headers and collectors leak ALOT, I’ve had them off the bike 3 times trying to seal them up, the misalignment and gaps are just too great to get anything to hold short of welding them and trying to install as one piece, which is probably the next thing I try. I had to rechrome them once as soon as I got them and will have to again if I start welding on them again. See the pics below taken as I unpacked them, this was before I knew about the problems I was going to have with alignment. I talked to Reband numerous times about the issues, all they were willing to do was offer to fix them if I paid shipping both ways. I don’t trust them.

The pipes without baffles are pretty serious loud but sound good to my ear, it’s a low, throaty kind of a snarl. I expect I’ll get tired of it, but right now they sound killer good.



003F57BC-25C5-48BA-8849-76107B31DEBD.jpeg
4D79CFBA-60EC-486D-B98A-6552C34C171A.jpeg 5BE2D96F-21DC-4737-99DA-365CC1F671E7.jpeg
 
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Thanks for the input Speedy, I’ve come to pay attention to your comments, I think you are knowledgeable. The Reband were most expensive between Carpenter, Viking and CES, which was OK if the quality was there, It wasn’t. Mounting tabs and nuts were misaligned and had to be cut off and moved. No way to get the heat shield mounted without cutting off and relocating nuts. The headers are improperly bent and will not align with the head when placed in the collector, the welds are a shabby dob and stick mess frequently left unground. All 3 of the joints between the headers and collectors leak ALOT, I’ve had them off the bike 3 times trying to seal them up, the misalignment and gaps are just too great to get anything to hold short of welding them and trying to install as one piece, which is probably the next thing I try. I had to rechrome them once as soon as I got them and will have to again if I start welding on them again. See the pics below taken as I unpacked them, this was before I knew about the problems I was going to have with alignment. I talked to Reband numerous times about the issues, all they were willing to do was offer to fix them if I paid shipping both ways. I don’t trust them.

The pipes without baffles are pretty serious loud but sound good to my ear, it’s a low, throaty kind of a snarl. I expect I’ll get tired of it, but right now they sounds killer good.



003F57BC-25C5-48BA-8849-76107B31DEBD.jpeg
4D79CFBA-60EC-486D-B98A-6552C34C171A.jpeg 5BE2D96F-21DC-4737-99DA-365CC1F671E7.jpeg
Warp always listens when @Speedy , post just as if it was Neville Lush posting. Thats how I learn :)
 
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