warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
Myself I would eliminate the air ducting if for nothing else so you can figure out why the engine light is coming on. After I figured that out then I'd be looking at do I want other mods. You are the first person I've ever heard has a engine light and no code. This is why I would figure that out first before throwing money at more then just the air filters. Something is loose that sends the code and is corrected before it's a permanent code. At its age it could just be a sparatic vacuum leak, loose low tension leads on a coil. I'd run that down after you do the filter mod.
Just my 2.5 cents worth.
Tell us more about it. You say its a 07 Classic is it a tourer model or just the Classic? Is the motor silver or black? Pictures are a lot of help if you're not sure. From your avatar I think she is a Classic Tourer correct me if I'm wrong. And get used to me being wrong
Just my 2.5 cents worth.
Tell us more about it. You say its a 07 Classic is it a tourer model or just the Classic? Is the motor silver or black? Pictures are a lot of help if you're not sure. From your avatar I think she is a Classic Tourer correct me if I'm wrong. And get used to me being wrong
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Frosty Rider
Turbocharged
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2016
- Messages
- 778
- Location
- Toronto, Ontario, Canada
- Ride
- 2010 R III T, 2020 R 3GT, 2001 HD CVO WideGlide
Myself I would eliminate the air ducting if for nothing else so you can figure out why the engine light is coming on. After I figured that out then I'd be looking at do I want other mods. You are the first person I've ever heard has a engine light and no code. This is why I would figure that out first before throwing money at more then just the air filters. Something is loose that sends the code and is corrected before it's a permanent code. At its age it could just be a sparatic vacuum leak, loose low tension leads on a coil. I'd run that down after you do the filter mod.
Just my 2.5 cents worth.
Tell us more about it. You say its a 07 Classic is it a tourer model or just the Classic? Is the motor silver or black? Pictures are a lot of help if you're not sure. From your avatar I think she is a Classic Tourer correct me if I'm wrong. And get used to me being wrong
You were wrong once? really? sure you weren't just mistaken about that?
Grumpy Ole Codger
Miserable as FECK
Yeah he was wrong...but only the once!!
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
DO NOT get ripped!
K&N 2780s are about $100.00
RamAir does breath a little better and yiield a little more RHP
Both fit under the Bearclaw without modification.
I've had both and give RamAir the slight nod.
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
No it won't get ripped up at all. It is tough and won't need cleaning for some time. I have 12,000 miles on mine and I'm just cleaning it now. It realy isn't dirty at all. I just figured I should clean it as a PM item.
Just took mine off today. Here it is. Have not cleaned it yet. And Idaho is a dusty climate.
May look clean, Bill, but after 12K tis not.
I use warm water and Dove . . .
sleeves
Nitrous
My 10c
As everyone has said get rid of all the plastic duscting under the tank, it makes other servicing like balancing throttle bodies so much easier. The space under the seat where air cleaner was makes a great storage area. This is worth it on its own.
Air intake, K&N or Ramair but the Ramair fits better under the claw and has a location for the Air Temp Sensor that needs another housing to protect it if using K&N's and Ramair comes as a complete kit (I have K&N's myself BTW just personal preference).
Pauls exhaust (obviously) and I prefer the sound of the twin pipes to my single pipe but like the single for maintenance and ease of access.
Remove plug and disable the narrow band 02 sensor.
Load a good map onto the ECU using Tune ECU.
Lastly get a PCV but only with the Autotune, set it up and you will be away.
The performance change is great fro not having to break the motor.
As everyone has said get rid of all the plastic duscting under the tank, it makes other servicing like balancing throttle bodies so much easier. The space under the seat where air cleaner was makes a great storage area. This is worth it on its own.
Air intake, K&N or Ramair but the Ramair fits better under the claw and has a location for the Air Temp Sensor that needs another housing to protect it if using K&N's and Ramair comes as a complete kit (I have K&N's myself BTW just personal preference).
Pauls exhaust (obviously) and I prefer the sound of the twin pipes to my single pipe but like the single for maintenance and ease of access.
Remove plug and disable the narrow band 02 sensor.
Load a good map onto the ECU using Tune ECU.
Lastly get a PCV but only with the Autotune, set it up and you will be away.
The performance change is great fro not having to break the motor.
Kevin frazier
Widowmaker!
That’s it, if you tell them it leaked I bet they replace for free. They are super at customer serviceI purchased a cleaning/oiling kit from RamAir. It got a little messy during shipping from England, but looks OK to use.
Tazithman
I'm not a real mechanic but I play one on TV
I got it back on after spending an hour fishing a bolt from behind the oil tank that fell when trying to reattach plenum.... Why would they use loose brass bushings in an area that's 1. Not level, and 2. Hard to reach.Sorry to say but the smartest dumb guy in the room is the one who puts that abortion back on
As said get the K&N filters or the ramair makes life a lot easier.
Boog
Traveling Story Teller
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2013
- Messages
- 8,487
- Location
- Dumfries, Virginia
- Ride
- 2014 R3T, RAMAIR, Full Viking Dual exhaust
I believe they use Pixies to do the assembly at the factory...
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