Stuff I build.

Custom muffler, twin system.

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Twin muffler, slip on system.

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Prices?
 
No it won't get ripped up at all. It is tough and won't need cleaning for some time. I have 12,000 miles on mine and I'm just cleaning it now. It realy isn't dirty at all. I just figured I should clean it as a PM item.

Just took mine off today. Here it is. Have not cleaned it yet. And Idaho is a dusty climate.

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What are you cleaning this with?
 
Drop me an E-mail to paul@vikingexhaust.com
Tell me where you are in the mail so that I can give you the pricing in your currency.

Give me an idea of what you are looking for.
A full twin muffler system.
A full 3 into 1 system.
Twin muffler slip on.
Single muffler slip on.
Email sent
 
I also prefer the Ramair to the single pods. Have had mine for 2 years now. 20,000 + kms. No issues. The Ramair also gives you a place to insert the intake air temp sensor. Accurate readings of the intake air instead of letting it hang above the valve cover in the breeze. I imagine performance would be the same for either. Ramair is cheaper in price. Quality is very good. Warranty is excellent too.

You concern about tearing..... Ramair replaced a number of the first generation filter assemblies which formed tears where they were clamped to the throttle bodies. This has since been rectified.
 
@Tazithman I have the 2014 R3T and ran the TORs slip-ons for about 70K miles. They are ready to be replaced due to corrosion (I ride all year, hardly wash the bike and have no garage).

I do not race the bike on any track and though I love the idea of high HP in higher RPMs, that is not where I operate. I live in the "under 100mph zone" and feel that I need more torque in the low to mid range of the stock RPM range (some exhaust systems have the most power higher in the RPM range and some of us even raise the RPM limiter to exercise that part of physics).

I search for awhile like you are now and decided to go with a full twin muffler system from @Paul Bryant at Viking. On several dyno sheets here on the forum, his headers show the torque higher than stock and very flat right where I want the energy to be.

I did not need to replace the OEM headers at this juncture, but figured that since I want to keep this bike forever, I may as well resign myself to replacing many parts along the way.

I just received the PCV AT module and will add that to the mix as well; and will have a pro do a dyno tune once the pipes arrive.

I cannot give you a first hand report on the Viking kit, but there are several dyno sheets on the forum here that do show what the headers and pipes provide. Which ever way you go, I believe that upgrading the header is important, not just the slip-ons.

Good and do tell what you go with in the end; and then show pictures or video of your install.
 
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