Request advice on new brake system 2014 R3T

Boog

Traveling Story Teller
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Oct 17, 2013
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Dumfries, Virginia
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2014 R3T, RAMAIR, Full Viking Dual exhaust
Hello all ye learned masters of stopping.

My first questions is: What new calipers and brake lines will fit the ABS version of the R3T (2014) without needing fabrication?

Second questions: What do I need to know about doing this swap at home? I get the idea that ABS is a more serious/attention to detail evolution than standard brakes.

Recently, Brahma had the master cylinder and the right front OEM caliper rebuilt . I mentioned in another thread that the front brakes still feel mushy but after pumping the grip, they pressure up. I believe this is an indication of air in the line but I have failed to get it out if it is.

I have read many threads here and think maybe the Pretech Six Pot calipers are the way to go such as @Joesmoe and others have gone to. I want to go to steel braded lines to. Everything I have read tells me they help to pressure the calipers a split second faster because they do not expand like OEM lines do.

You know I am not known for waxing and polishing the bike and ride in every condition around. I am learning all about corrosion issues. Brahma is starting to need new parts anyway so I might as well go with the good stuff. He has eaten up much of my disposable income of late, but I do intend to keep him around to the end. With that said, is there a better or more cost effective means? Brembo is great on the 2020 bikes for sure but I think it is pricier.

Should I change the disk as well? It seems to be in good shape judging only by feel. I see quite a few of you have changed that too. @Paul Bryant has a good write up with his set up. And I see @1K9 and @Tripps and others have all had a go at upgrading calipers.

Keep in mind guys, I do not even qualify as a shade tree mechanic, (I don't even have a tree).

I am on the Pretech website now but am confused as to which caliper: I do not see any supporting ABS or for the R3T, they just have R3R listed. I have sent them a message.

I look forward to your sage advise...
 
The triumph OEM lines are steel under the plastic cover if I remember correctly! You need to bleed both calipers at the same time using a vacuum pump and a dual caliper set up. I don’t have abs but it couldn’t hurt to bleed/ change the fluid in the abs unit! I’m real anal when it comes to brakes. I flush and bleed every two years or as soon as the fluid starts to turn amber! Stop by I’ll give you a hand!
 
The triumph OEM lines are steel under the plastic cover if I remember correctly! You need to bleed both calipers at the same time using a vacuum pump and a dual caliper set up. I don’t have abs but it couldn’t hurt to bleed/ change the fluid in the abs unit! I’m real anal when it comes to brakes. I flush and bleed every two years or as soon as the fluid starts to turn amber! Stop by I’ll give you a hand!
The dealer just changed the fluid and has bleed the system five times after the flush. This is when they discovered the master cylinder and right caliper needed rebuilding.
 
Those Pretec are nice. I don’t know which model matches the R3T though.
 
Hello all ye learned masters of stopping.

My first questions is: What new calipers and brake lines will fit the ABS version of the R3T (2014) without needing fabrication?

Second questions: What do I need to know about doing this swap at home? I get the idea that ABS is a more serious/attention to detail evolution than standard brakes.

Recently, Brahma had the master cylinder and the right front OEM caliper rebuilt . I mentioned in another thread that the front brakes still feel mushy but after pumping the grip, they pressure up. I believe this is an indication of air in the line but I have failed to get it out if it is.

I have read many threads here and think maybe the Pretech Six Pot calipers are the way to go such as @Joesmoe and others have gone to. I want to go to steel braded lines to. Everything I have read tells me they help to pressure the calipers a split second faster because they do not expand like OEM lines do.

You know I am not known for waxing and polishing the bike and ride in every condition around. I am learning all about corrosion issues. Brahma is starting to need new parts anyway so I might as well go with the good stuff. He has eaten up much of my disposable income of late, but I do intend to keep him around to the end. With that said, is there a better or more cost effective means? Brembo is great on the 2020 bikes for sure but I think it is pricier.

Should I change the disk as well? It seems to be in good shape judging only by feel. I see quite a few of you have changed that too. @Paul Bryant has a good write up with his set up. And I see @1K9 and @Tripps and others have all had a go at upgrading calipers.

Keep in mind guys, I do not even qualify as a shade tree mechanic, (I don't even have a tree).

I am on the Pretech website now but am confused as to which caliper: I do not see any supporting ABS or for the R3T, they just have R3R listed. I have sent them a message.

I look forward to your sage advise...

This is the smartest thing I did on the advice of someone. I bought this banjo bleeder bolt and put it on my front brake master cylinder. I did this because I had to remove the brake line temporarily to relocate for the risers I put on. Anyway, I did the plastic tie trick described here in the post. I tie the brake lever overnight and with the tie still in place I opened the bleeder valve the next morning until I heard a pop. It literally did pop. I closed the bleeder, removed the tie and the air was gone. I think I bought the bleeder from JEGs. Hope this helps. BTW...I only had to do the procedure once, but you may need to do it a couple times...not sure.
 

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Pretech's are lovely.

BUT If the brakes feel spongy - there is air or organic sponge'y shyte in there.

1) Flush (bleeders etc help here) and strip/clean.
2) Hoses (if there is shyte in there - flushing does nothing)
3) Pads
4) Master Cyl
5) Calipers.
 
This is the smartest thing I did on the advice of someone. I bought this banjo bleeder bolt and put it on my front brake master cylinder. I did this because I had to remove the brake line temporarily to relocate for the risers I put on. Anyway, I did the plastic tie trick described here in the post. I tie the brake lever overnight and with the tie still in place I opened the bleeder valve the next morning until I heard a pop. It literally did pop. I closed the bleeder, removed the tie and the air was gone. I think I bought the bleeder from JEGs. Hope this helps. BTW...I only had to do the procedure once, but you may need to do it a couple times...not sure.
This is a very good tip, do you happen to know thread size or the part number you ordered?
 
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