Leak at clutch lifter shaft

Being the big spender I am I ordered 2 of the seals. In the meantime I puzzled over the reason for the failure, the crankcase pressure comments worried me. Long story short I’ve got Reband pipes (mistake) that were overpacked with fiberglass and a Moroso crankcase ventilation backcheck valve that failed. The result was excess crankcase pressure. I pulled the baffle and fiberglass, rode it and took it to a newly found local dyno shop where he burned 1/2 tank of fuel re-tuning today, picked up 12 hp from old tune with open pipes to new tune with open pipes, and I could feel a significant difference between baffle in and baffle out before he started tuning. AND no oil leak. So I’m not sure if I need to change the seal, but if I do I got a couple on hand.
@warp9.9 @Speedy thanks for the help!
@vindex1963 crankcase pressure may be something for you to consider as well.
 
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Being the big spender I am I ordered 2 of the seals. In the meantime I puzzled over the reason for the failure, the crankcase pressure comments worried me. Long story short I’ve got Reband pipes (mistake) that were overpacked with fiberglass and a Moroso crankcase ventilation backcheck valve that failed. The result was excess crankcase pressure. I pulled the baffle and fiberglass, rode it and took it to a newly found local dyno shop where he burned 1/2 tank of fuel re-tuning today, picked up 12 hp from old tune with open pipes to new tune with open pipes, and I could feel a significant difference between baffle in and baffle out before he started tuning. AND no oil leak. So I’m not sure if I need to change the seal, but if I do I got a couple on hand.
@warp9.9 @Speedy thanks for the help!
@vindex1963 crankcase pressure may be something for you to consider as well.

Glad you got it sorted. Why the comment that the Rebands were a mistake? Also, how did the bike sound with and without the baffled insert? And you can normally severely restrict exhaust flow to the point the motor will barely run and still have minimal crankcase pressure. I do believe the culprit in your case was the Moroso check valve.

Good dyno tuning takes a lot of time. It is really easy to get WOT at some desired number, but a whole different story to get the bike to run and cruise right at most speeds and throttle openings. The ignition timing comes into play as well. In my world, 1000's of dyno hours are spent on this while still meeting emission standards.
 
@warp9.9

My clutch shaft seal will be here Monday, think it can be removed easily? Hopefully I can take the arm off and pull it out.
I think its possible although I've never tried it. I believe the spline diameter is smaller then the seal area but a wrap of tape will help protect the seal then with the right deap well socket you should be able to install the new one. If I get down to the barn today I think I have a silver cover I can muck about with. So if I get the chance I'll look closer.
 
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