Anyone know bevel box drain plug thread size, pitch, etc. for R3T

Helicoils ime are often NOT oil-tight - Oil can weep via capillary action. The alternatives are however not that easy to do at home.

Yes, you are correct. That's why I mentioned Heli Coil TYPE. I just couldn't think of a name of one of the many solid insert types. I'm going to use a solid insert, of course. I never used the wire type because I just don't trust them. That said, I have a Heli Coil kit for a repair I did with strip threads on my Briggs & Stratton rototiller engine. That kit included solid inserts.

But I know what you're saying and I agree with you. Thanks!
 
Yes 10mm with a 1.5 pitch..
WP_20200327_001.jpg

The picture is very helpful. I really appreciate you uploading it. I change my bevel box oil at every engine/trans oil change, which is about every 3,000 miles (I'm stubbornly old school with oil changes). I've had the plug out many times but this time there's nothing left of it. I won't bore you with a description of what happened when trying to get it out because I wrote a long, boring, detailed post about that seperately. Long story short, the plug came out fine. When reinstalling it, it just started spinning when barely finger tight. Virtually no torque. Nothing would get it out. I modified a tool to get a really good grip on it so I could pull and turn at the same time. No luck. I tried heating it. No luck. Finally, I drilled just as deep as the plug head starting with very small drills and working up until the plug head dropped off. To my surprise, there was no bolt to be seen in the hole. I can see right through to the ring gear. I'm thinking, "Un Oh!" Wheres the rest of the bolt and the magnet? Did any metal get in the bevel box? (I still don't know.)

So here's two questions that I hope someone can answer:

1) Is the bolt hollow? I don't remember it being hollow. But as I said above, once the plug head was drilled off, I can see all the way through to the ring gear.

2) How is the magnet installed? I just never inspected it in the past so I can't remember. Is it inserted into a hollow plug bolt?

Needless to say, what should have been a minor problem has turned into a major one. And if metal got into the bevel box, I may have to buy a new bevel box for something like $2,300 and it may take a long time to get one. There's used ones on eBay but I wouldn't know what I'm getting if I go that route.
 
Ok yes 10 mm 1.5 mm pitch. If it were me and you might have tried it already. But I would sharpen a Q size letter drill left handed. Its about .0024" smaller then the metric tap drill size. And with a vacuum cleaner sucking see if you can drill her out. The metric tap drill is 8.5 mm.
Good luck


Warp9: Thank you very much! Thats really helpful. I'm beyond trying to get anything out. I explain that in another post in this thread that I posted later.
 
Just adding this bit to be helpful....since the plug seals on the face of the plug iirc, make sure that the helicoil is shorter than the material you will be inserting it into. Otherwise, your gonna have jacked up threads. Most hardware or automotive shops sell kits individually.

If you haven’t used one of these repairs, you will need a 13/32 drill, the 10x1.5mm helicoil tap, the installation tool (keeps the insert shape while installing, and a drive tool.


<Jveheli. Thanks much! You folks have been so helpful and I really appreciate it. I have used thread repair kits so I know what your talking about. I only use the solid insert type. I never used the wire type because I just don't trust them. With the info you guy have given me, I know what kit to get. Hopefully, the hole isn't too large to use a kit that would allow me to use a factory drain plug but, if not, I'll just go up a size. I'll measure it tomorrow. I'm sure I have a 13/32 bit so I'll see it it seems right (a little too small for the existing hole) tomorrow.
 
Yes, you are correct. That's why I mentioned Heli Coil TYPE. ----But I know what you're saying and I agree with you. Thanks!
I have heard - never tried myself. That if you install the wire-coils with epoxy resin (all spotlessly clean and de-greased obviously) and then clean the thread with a thread chaser (not a thread tap) it works fine.

If it were me - I'd change the thread to a hydraulic thread - add a bundy washer to the bolt - once the bundy rubber is flat - it wont leak - more or less finger tight. It'll hold 300bar of air - so dribbly oil has no chance.
 
The picture is very helpful. I really appreciate you uploading it. I change my bevel box oil at every engine/trans oil change, which is about every 3,000 miles (I'm stubbornly old school with oil changes). I've had the plug out many times but this time there's nothing left of it. I won't bore you with a description of what happened when trying to get it out because I wrote a long, boring, detailed post about that seperately. Long story short, the plug came out fine. When reinstalling it, it just started spinning when barely finger tight. Virtually no torque. Nothing would get it out. I modified a tool to get a really good grip on it so I could pull and turn at the same time. No luck. I tried heating it. No luck. Finally, I drilled just as deep as the plug head starting with very small drills and working up until the plug head dropped off. To my surprise, there was no bolt to be seen in the hole. I can see right through to the ring gear. I'm thinking, "Un Oh!" Wheres the rest of the bolt and the magnet? Did any metal get in the bevel box? (I still don't know.)

So here's two questions that I hope someone can answer:

1) Is the bolt hollow? I don't remember it being hollow. But as I said above, once the plug head was drilled off, I can see all the way through to the ring gear.

2) How is the magnet installed? I just never inspected it in the past so I can't remember. Is it inserted into a hollow plug bolt?

Needless to say, what should have been a minor problem has turned into a major one. And if metal got into the bevel box, I may have to buy a new bevel box for something like $2,300 and it may take a long time to get one. There's used ones on eBay but I wouldn't know what I'm getting if I go that route.

If you drilled the bolt head off and not found the shank of the bolt i would be worried that it's inside the bevel box.
Have you removed the bevel box from the bike?
 
If you drilled the bolt head off and not found the shank of the bolt i would be worried that it's inside the bevel box.
Have you removed the bevel box from the bike?

Yep! That's exactly what I'm worried about and, no, I haven't removed the bevel box. I'll remove it if I find I have to replace it. I do have a fiber optic inspection camera but it can't bend around corners. But the fill hole is large enough that I may be able to point it towards fill hole.

I'm at a loss to figure out why I see straight through to the ring gear (with the inspection camera) and how the rest of the bolt/magnet could literally fall out of the threads and then fall uphill (the bike is leaning on it's kickstand) into the bevel box. As I said, the bolt came out with no problem and was in perfect shape visually. I put Never Seez on the threads and it just started spinning freely when it was barely over finger tight. I was just threading it in and hadn't begun to torque it. Really weird! Can anyone tell me if the plug is hollow - perhaps with a magnet inserted into the hollow? I don't remember the end being open (hollow) and I have had it out numerous times. Also, can someone tell me how the magnet is built into the plug or is the plug simply magnetized? That would be helpful.
 
The plug is hollow the magnet is just inserted into the end I would guess that when u drilled the plug that u pushed the magnet into the final drive.
Being a magnet and the ring being steel it probably headed for the ring gear.
 
If u raise the bike and turn the wheel in a forward motion then put your scope into the fill hole u might be able to retrieve it with another magnet.
 
Back
Top