Handlebar Risers by Rivco for the New Triumph Rocket III


R3 2 headlight models

risers.jpg


Chrome handlebar risers by Rivco for the Triumph Rocket III

Brings the handlebars up 1” and back 2” to reduce back strain and allow for a more relaxed style of riding.

US$182.95


risers2.jpg

This picture shows the Rivco riser compared to the stock riser.


R3 Touring single headlight version.

Rocket III Touring Model Risers

While it may not seem like a lot, 1" up and 2" back towards the rider gives you a much more upright seating position rather than reaching over the gas tank. This will significantly reduce back, neck, and shoulder fatigue. These risers are machined from billet aluminum and are triple chrome plated. They use the original hoses and cables with only minor re-routing required. Custom made for the Rocket III Touring Model!

US$182.95


tr3017tr1.jpg


http://ww4.aitsafe.com/cf/add.cfm?u...+TR3017-TR&price=182.95&return=www.newr3.com/

tr3017tr2.jpg
 
So if you click on that site, and all the functionality is there, there is also a little note at the top that says "Our new site is <newbonneville.com>, and on THAT site, none of these nifty parts are available.
 
Last edited:
Handlebar Risers by Rivco for the New Triumph Rocket III


R3 2 headlight models

risers.jpg


Chrome handlebar risers by Rivco for the Triumph Rocket III

Brings the handlebars up 1” and back 2” to reduce back strain and allow for a more relaxed style of riding.

US$182.95


risers2.jpg

This picture shows the Rivco riser compared to the stock riser.


R3 Touring single headlight version.

Rocket III Touring Model Risers

While it may not seem like a lot, 1" up and 2" back towards the rider gives you a much more upright seating position rather than reaching over the gas tank. This will significantly reduce back, neck, and shoulder fatigue. These risers are machined from billet aluminum and are triple chrome plated. They use the original hoses and cables with only minor re-routing required. Custom made for the Rocket III Touring Model!

US$182.95


tr3017tr1.jpg


http://ww4.aitsafe.com/cf/add.cfm?u...+TR3017-TR&price=182.95&return=www.newr3.com/

tr3017tr2.jpg
Have already installed these made a little difference but not what i expected Thanks
 
OK - Here's my take on this. It's a generic post - not aimed at anybody in particular: really!.

I DO NOT LIKE RISERS MUCH. Simply you are adding a mechanical interface that is not necessary and ime often not well made. Simple riser spacer blocks are less of a concern. But they seldom really fix much as often it's the bars angles that are wrong - imo the wrist angles on the OEM bars are crap. Plus some other cruddy bits of design.

But far better is to find (or make) some handlebars that suit you. And I would suggest (from experience) that first you need to get the rest of you comfy.

If you have movable footrests this is an easier job - but that is VERY seldom the case. I have done this with just about EVERY bike I have ever owned - Some I did not keep long enough to do. But only 1 has ever fitted me right out of the box. And 99% of that is the seat to pegs position being SPOT ON.

If you have a workshop stand then it's easier. But basically you need to go out many, many, many times and just throw your leg over and sit down : feet up : without touching the bars. If that's not comfy then address it before the next bit. If reshape seat is required, do it NOW.

Once comfy, close eyes and lift arms to where you think things should be - - OK? - open eyes and note offsets - and note wrist angles. The wrist angle part is easier if you hold a bit of tube (plastic water pipe is cheap and non damaging).

If you intend to lean into the bars you may need to make up some little spacer blocs to rest twixt your hands and the original bars to take the load off torso musculature.

If the RIVCO are not enough for you: get comfortable with the fact that you will almost certainly need new cables and hoses.

The R3T throttle cables are substantially longer and fit. I had overlength clutch cables made up by Venhill in the UK and used Goodrich Build-a-line parts to make new brake hoses. After much online research I found that a set of bars from KhromeWerks had the right angles for me. Added some solid bar elongations to each end to get some clearance issues sorted and kill vibes.

If there is a GOOD tube benders near you - see if they have somebody willing to use a lunchtime for some cash. The bars on my Guzzi I had made in the mid '80's. I sat on the bike - they measured and then made the bars - Still work.

Finally - this may sound harsh - if all of the above seems like too much hard work: then I would also consider that maybe this is NOT the bike you thought you wanted.
 
So if you click on that site, and all the functionality is there, there is also a little note at the top that says "Our new site is <newbonneville.com>, and on THAT site, none of these nifty parts are available.

Good point Paul for those that want to buy new.

I was just posting for info as often this stuff disappears for good. I have often posted similar in the Classifieds section but now have found a lot has disappeared as the older threads are being deleted I think like our Conversations are whereas other forum threads are not deleted.
 
OK - Here's my take on this. It's a generic post - not aimed at anybody in particular: really!.

I DO NOT LIKE RISERS MUCH. Simply you are adding a mechanical interface that is not necessary and ime often not well made. Simple riser spacer blocks are less of a concern. But they seldom really fix much as often it's the bars angles that are wrong - imo the wrist angles on the OEM bars are crap. Plus some other cruddy bits of design.

But far better is to find (or make) some handlebars that suit you. And I would suggest (from experience) that first you need to get the rest of you comfy.

If you have movable footrests this is an easier job - but that is VERY seldom the case. I have done this with just about EVERY bike I have ever owned - Some I did not keep long enough to do. But only 1 has ever fitted me right out of the box. And 99% of that is the seat to pegs position being SPOT ON.

If you have a workshop stand then it's easier. But basically you need to go out many, many, many times and just throw your leg over and sit down : feet up : without touching the bars. If that's not comfy then address it before the next bit. If reshape seat is required, do it NOW.

Once comfy, close eyes and lift arms to where you think things should be - - OK? - open eyes and note offsets - and note wrist angles. The wrist angle part is easier if you hold a bit of tube (plastic water pipe is cheap and non damaging).

If you intend to lean into the bars you may need to make up some little spacer blocs to rest twixt your hands and the original bars to take the load off torso musculature.

If the RIVCO are not enough for you: get comfortable with the fact that you will almost certainly need new cables and hoses.

The R3T throttle cables are substantially longer and fit. I had overlength clutch cables made up by Venhill in the UK and used Goodrich Build-a-line parts to make new brake hoses. After much online research I found that a set of bars from KhromeWerks had the right angles for me. Added some solid bar elongations to each end to get some clearance issues sorted and kill vibes.

If there is a GOOD tube benders near you - see if they have somebody willing to use a lunchtime for some cash. The bars on my Guzzi I had made in the mid '80's. I sat on the bike - they measured and then made the bars - Still work.

Finally - this may sound harsh - if all of the above seems like too much hard work: then I would also consider that maybe this is NOT the bike you thought you wanted.
My problem is a back injury so getting it right for me will always be a problem am getting a seat made at the moment £600 if that does not work or is not what i wanted it to do then i am stuffed i think :banghead:
 
My problem is a back injury so getting it right for me will always be a problem am getting a seat made at the moment £600 if that does not work or is not what i wanted it to do then i am stuffed i think :banghead:
That final option should see you sitting comfortably with a smile... if you get the right taxidermist!;):D
 
My problem is a back injury so getting it right for me will always be a problem am getting a seat made at the moment £600 if that does not work or is not what i wanted it to do then i am stuffed i think :banghead:
Once you have your foot<->bum relationship correct, bars tend to sort of fall into place. I have a substantial twist in my lower spine, so I have some idea what you are going through. I should of course exercise more than I do, but there it is - Old Dog New Tricks Won't Happen.
 
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