PaddyO
Supercharged
Drill deeper, just short of breaking through to the inside. Re-tap with a plug tap followed by a bottoming tap. Then use permanent thread lock on good studs threaded into the holes. Drill out the threads of the broken off pieces and epoxy them over the studs to restore the original clamping surface.
If you can get 2 times the stud diameter engaged in good internal threads you should be okay. These bosses are in tension when the side stand is used.
@Speedy, Could you explain some of the terms you are using? "plug tap" and "bottoming tap"
What if I used a tap of the same diameter and thread as the current holes? Went very slowly, cleaning out the hole as I went, and added 5-6 threads for the three current holes and also did the fourth hole that is at the top left. Using high quality all thread, screwed them into the holes with permanent thread lock to make the studs for the nuts which will hold the kickstand onto the bike. Drill out the broken pieces so the all thread would go through them and use epoxy and a nut to hold the pieces against the casing till it cured. Then had someone weld a plate to the back of the kickstand and drilled the holes to match the four holes in the casing. Then use 4 nuts to hold the kickstand onto the studs. I could also have a plate welded onto the bottom of the kickstand to straighten the angle a bit to take some of the stress off the studs.
I am also getting a Rivco center stand from a fellow board member. I am hoping it will fit the R3T, and that I will be able to get the bike on/off the center stand. If that works, I will stop with any repairs.
If the center stand does not work, @Paul Bryant, if I am understanding your drawing correctly, the hole on the left has 4 mm of material behind it and the hole on the right has 6 mm of material behind it? As I am facing the bike from the kickstand side (clutch side) are the forward holes in the drawing the holes on the left and the rearward holes the ones on the right? Thanks Paul.