Damaged crankcase with pictures -- FIXED

Drill deeper, just short of breaking through to the inside. Re-tap with a plug tap followed by a bottoming tap. Then use permanent thread lock on good studs threaded into the holes. Drill out the threads of the broken off pieces and epoxy them over the studs to restore the original clamping surface.

If you can get 2 times the stud diameter engaged in good internal threads you should be okay. These bosses are in tension when the side stand is used.

@Speedy, Could you explain some of the terms you are using? "plug tap" and "bottoming tap"

What if I used a tap of the same diameter and thread as the current holes? Went very slowly, cleaning out the hole as I went, and added 5-6 threads for the three current holes and also did the fourth hole that is at the top left. Using high quality all thread, screwed them into the holes with permanent thread lock to make the studs for the nuts which will hold the kickstand onto the bike. Drill out the broken pieces so the all thread would go through them and use epoxy and a nut to hold the pieces against the casing till it cured. Then had someone weld a plate to the back of the kickstand and drilled the holes to match the four holes in the casing. Then use 4 nuts to hold the kickstand onto the studs. I could also have a plate welded onto the bottom of the kickstand to straighten the angle a bit to take some of the stress off the studs.

I am also getting a Rivco center stand from a fellow board member. I am hoping it will fit the R3T, and that I will be able to get the bike on/off the center stand. If that works, I will stop with any repairs.

If the center stand does not work, @Paul Bryant, if I am understanding your drawing correctly, the hole on the left has 4 mm of material behind it and the hole on the right has 6 mm of material behind it? As I am facing the bike from the kickstand side (clutch side) are the forward holes in the drawing the holes on the left and the rearward holes the ones on the right? Thanks Paul.
 
@Speedy,

If the center stand does not work, @Paul Bryant, if I am understanding your drawing correctly, the hole on the left has 4 mm of material behind it and the hole on the right has 6 mm of material behind it? As I am facing the bike from the kickstand side (clutch side) are the forward holes in the drawing the holes on the left and the rearward holes the ones on the right? Thanks Paul.

Yes that is correct Paddy.
 
I am also getting a Rivco center stand from a fellow board member. I am hoping it will fit the R3T, and that I will be able to get the bike on/off the center stand. If that works, I will stop with any repairs.
If you get it to fit - let us know how. I tried to fit one to my 2009 R3S and it simply will not without some serious fabrication. My neighbour is about to buy a TiG so maybe we'll have another go.
 
Can you breeze on additional material to strengthen the crank case in that area? It’ll lose a little bit of the cooling that those fins are supposed to supply. However you really need to beef up the strength in that area for the kickstand.
 
Could you utilize the peg rails as a backup support if the primary fix fails ? maybe too much movement.

i think I would built a strut between the two peg rails and mount new bracket to mount the side stand on top of where it is. or do something with the two holes at the bottom of the frame, like a Jack be Quick but with a bracket for the sidestand

With a weld or glue you will always be wondering when its going to fail. not good
 
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He’s probably completed repair this was back in July with a couple threads open and I just could not find his fix post. Will see hopefully just in case ever need to know, hope not but accidents happen
 
If you get it to fit - let us know how. I tried to fit one to my 2009 R3S and it simply will not without some serious fabrication. My neighbour is about to buy a TiG so maybe we'll have another go.

This is not solved yet. I have the JackBeQuick bracket and am thinking about tying into it. This would put the kick stand pretty far back, but I think it would still be usable. A friend I have made since moving here is a mechanical engineer and motorcycle rider has been helping with trying to think of different solutions. He thinks tying into the JackBeQuick bracket would work because steel likes to be pulled rather than pushed, and when the bike is on the kick stand, the stress would be carried by the bracket.

I am wondering if anyone has one of the forward JackBeQuick brackets when Bob made them as a pair, one in front of the one that goes in the back? If anyone has one that you are not using, PM me. It would need to fit a 2014 R3T. I contacted Bob about this and he is no longer making them due to low demand. If I could tie into the forward one, it would be easier to reach the kick stand and would be out of the way of the left exhaust.

Regarding trying to repair the damage, people on this board, more knowledgable than me, have indicated that welding/brazing/epoxying the damage would not be a permanent fix and eventually would fail. I am heeding this advice.

Reasons for the lack of progress were looking for a place to live and then moving into the place. We are now moved in and I can now come back to the problem. Everything has been sitting in a storage unit with no heat or power. Housing here in Salt Lake City, UT is much more expensive than Florida, which is from where we came. It took a while to find a place that would work for us and we could afford.
 
O.K. I got a bit of time this afternoon, here's a layout of the crank case in this area.
There's a rib directly behind the rearward holes.
The threads are 24 mm deep.
And there is a bulge behind the forward bolt hole.

Crankcase.jpg


Don’t want to derail this but just remark...this ...you Guys help and knowledge is what make this forum so unique!
 
Ok I was just looking at a block. First with a 6 or 7 mm plate you can use the 4th hole that is not threaded. Tap drill the others deaper even if you break thru the case. Use a vacuum like Blaine suggested. If both uppers are good once you drill the two lowers put the two broken bosses back on with epoxy, devcon, or JB weld type then tap with plug followed by bottoming tap. When you assemble paint every thread well with medium grade thread locker to seal and hold.
 
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