Clutch adjustment/issue

Timbo

Supercharged
Joined
Apr 18, 2011
Messages
257
Location
Wigan, UK
Ride
2013 R3 Roadster
Hi all,

Bought my 2013 Rocket III Roadster in Jan this year as an insurance write off, cosmetic damage only. It had 962 miles on the clock and I have no idea of the history, how long it had stood and where.

Got it all sorted and back on the road but have had clutch "issues" ever since.

The problem is that when I adjust the cable to have the recommended 2-3mm play at the lever, it drags when fully pulled in to the bars and its difficult to get into 1st. If I take out the 2-3mm so there is no play (not recommended) it will go into 1st just fine, but obviously could be slipping when riding. Was worse with the standard levers but have fitted some adjustable ones and with them fully out, I cant reach them to pull the clutch in so that's not the fix :rolleyes:

Question - what is causing this? Could it be the springs as it has stood for so long? Lifter/push rod/whatever its called? Could it be the plates? (assume not as they must be new at only 2000 miles on them). Assume it is not the cable as you can adjust just fine.

Any suggestions would be very gratefully received.

Thanks in advance.
 
I have had a similar issue with surface rust / clutch material adhering to the steels in the clutch when standing for a very long time. You did say that it has only done like 962 miles as a 2013 model. You will need to pull the clutch and likely clean up your frictions and the steels or replace them. The clutch will be dragging on the corrosion and little bits of clutch material that has bonded itself to the steels, which currently requires slightly more clutch travel to release fully.

I have seen this on new unused dual plate truck clutches if its not cleaned up it will destroy the clutch in a very short time.

That will be your problem, for sure.
 
Yep she needs to be opened up and inspected. I'm leaning towards burn lifter shaft. So when it rotates you do not get the lift on the lifter piece that you should.
 
My bike sat for 5 years unused (major car crash injury) and the friction plates and steeles fused together.
Even after breaking them free and running for a few years the clutch doesn't fully disengage when cold.
I'm going to replace the steeles, frictions, lifter piece and lifter shaft this winter/spring.
Just saying.
 
I'm with Warp, and voting worn lifter shaft and plunger. Very little room for wear in that design.
 
Thanks guys, knew you’d have some good advice :cool:

I’ll tear it down at the weekend and let you know what I find! Probably post some pics if the problem isn’t obvious as I don’t know what a worn lifter looks like :)

thanks again
 
Thanks guys, knew you’d have some good advice :cool:

I’ll tear it down at the weekend and let you know what I find! Probably post some pics if the problem isn’t obvious as I don’t know what a worn lifter looks like :)

thanks again
If you look at the Detent Spring instructions in my signature you will that they will help you with the clutch plates etc as well.
 
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