A new bike: not really - just new tires and front suspension

Tripp’s the emulators paul installed and correct air gap might fix or help your weave per robs response above, I don’t have the weave but if paul said it made it feel like a new ride I’m going for it

Eh, I'm both skeptical and tired of throwing money at the bike trying to make it perform like it should or could, especially as it's nine years old now. Maybe I'm trying to make it something that it's not, but if I want to go 150+ with no drama, I have other bikes that do that, and do it well. Out in Wyoming I set my cruise control on the BMW at 130 mph, and could take my hands off the bars and just roll for miles and miles.
 
Big shoutout to @cr0ft for recommending the Avon Cobra front and rear with wide white walls (only got the white wall on the front), and to @barbagris who recommended the Race Tech cartridge emulator with new springs and oil in the front forks.

I had to ride 63 miles to Pasadena, MD. Kenny of MRP Motorsports had scheduled me today so I could ride in - ride out.

He is a suspension guy by trade, though he is also a tuner (I'll go back for that).

With all the talk here about lifts and brackets and so on, it was neat to see him take a standard floor jack, place a bit of wood on the pad, and lift the bike from the right side, providing a new third point, and lifting the front off the floor.

In that position, he removed the calipers, ABS sensor, front wheel.

The Touring has sleeves around the top of the forks. Kenney has little experience with Rockets, and yet he is the ideal scratch his chin and do the right thing kind of guy. He found by removing the mounts for for the quick fit windshield, there was slack in the sleeves, enough so that he was able to access the pinch bolts, and presto, both forks just slid right out. No messing with handlebars nor anything else up top.

I watched for the better part of an hour and a half disassemble the forks, and rebuild them with the Race Tech Gold Emulator. It went easily thanks to Kenney's intimate knowledge and the right tools. He took measurements before taking things apart, and during the process. He is clearly a data-driven guy.

He did both tires, and yes, turned the valve stem 180o on the rear. And yes, he removed the bevel box.

I was surprised that it looked fine inside there. He went ahead and added more molly grease.

The hardest part about all this was getting the rear wheel back on, with the spacer and rear caliper.

I'm sure there is a trick to it. He struggled and struggled, then he did something and everything just dropped into place.

In any case, I am tickled pink.

Thanks everyone !

Joe, can you publish the part numbers or link to product you’ve used.... I’m looking to do my front end .... always interested in something someone else has found has worked!
 
Eh, I'm both skeptical and tired of throwing money at the bike trying to make it perform like it should or could, especially as it's nine years old now. Maybe I'm trying to make it something that it's not, but if I want to go 150+ with no drama, I have other bikes that do that, and do it well. Out in Wyoming I set my cruise control on the BMW at 130 mph, and could take my hands off the bars and just roll for miles and miles.
Kind of with you on that, Only I wished I would have done suspension before large HP increase. Nothing wrong with triple filters and a good pipe then suspension,and I mean adjustable suspension front and back and radial dampening. Not looking for high speed but now that I have a good suspension I can appreciate how important or how it can vastly change the ride of the beast.
 
I checked out Paul's link, they're actually a lot cheaper than I expected, maybe I'm not done yet.....
 
I just installed them, very adjustable
they send you three different springs, 64lb,32lb,24, and you can adjust to dial in the spring for your application, I’m talking touring
 

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