A new bike: not really - just new tires and front suspension

Joesmoe said:

Here one can see the simple three-point method of working on the front of the bike -- no fancy mounts, and using a standard floor jack and wood spacer(s). The bike has been raised on the right side, so it rests on the three points of the rear tire, side stand, and jack under the frame on the right side. This provided enough clearance to remove the front wheel, fender, and forks. Both calipers have been moved back over the fall-over guards, out of the way, and one sees the ABS sensor hanging.

One fork is already gone, and Kenny is removing the second fork.

Here you see nicely the profile of the OEM Metzler Marathon with 7,404 miles on the left, and the two new Avon Cobras (purchased from Rocky Mountain ATV)

Disassembly of the old fork. Note the actual work on the forks was done in his fully equipped trailer, a significant part of his business being track side support during race season.

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Awesome pics . They help explain alot One question headers where did you get those they look really good.

The headers are from our @Paul Bryant Viking Exhaust, and the muffler is from our @Dain DJExcitingSounds. I find this is a great combination. Both men are sole proprietor craftsmen, and stand behind their work.

Look forward to your participation.

Thanks for the thread and pics. I had to look up where Pasadena was. My son, his family and his Rocket reside in Bel Air, MD.

I've learned the value of upgrading suspension. I'm having Barry Wrestler at KFG Racing rebuild the front end on my 09T in the spring. The guy is amazing and is a regular at the superbike races out here. He did the rear shock setup on my 2011 VStrom when I had the sidecar installed. I have to take the front forks to him this winter for the emulators, springs etc. I had leading legs installed on the forks which makes for a much more complex removal so I'll do that part.

I'm most anxious to see how the Rocket will perform with the rebuilt forks.

Oh and on Dyna Beads. I guess it's handy if one changes his own tires. I don't use them though because I've had to use Slime at times after plugging a flat.

Joesmoe said:

Ah, the English language. I'm not sure you realize, that what I thought I said when I told you is not what I meant.

"A new bike . . ."

YES, is the short answer.

Night to day.

Before, the bike felt heavy, and uncertain in any kind of turn, particularly with any surface irregularities -- of which there are plenty around here.

Even though I was taking it easy with the new tires, there were plenty of bumps to be had, and the bike felt (the front at least) planted, and ready to respond to my inputs, as it should be. This is clearly better than new.

I have to be careful, that changing multiple variables makes it nigh on impossible to assign causality -- nevertheless -- I'm really happy with where I am so far.

Really appreciate that pointer back when.

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Yup good post paul, emulators getting ordered soon, thanks for the write up. Oh I would guess you use stock weight oil also, 10w? You probably didn’t get greasy sweaty mad hurt or any of those things doing this upgrade huh, going to Kenny was smart marine.

Joesmoe said:

I'm sure there is a trick to it. He struggled and struggled, then he did something and everything just dropped into place.
!

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That's the exact trick. Fiddle with it, seems impossible, refuses to fit, then it does and it just drops into place. Does get easier with repetition, but it's the fun of aligning 4 things at the same time, just right.

Enjoy the new balance the bike will have, you'll find yourself riding more quickly without knowing it I bet.

I also greatly appreciate the feel of a newly upgraded set of forks. The tires will make the turn in effort lighter and smoother, but the new suspension bits should provide the feel, braking anti-dive, and more confident feel of the front end. The best indicator that it's "just right" is when you go for a ride and the front end suspension is "invisible", where it just plain works and gives you feedback.

That's the exact reason I've not gone further on my front end than Wilbers Springs, 10W oil, and a smaller air gap. It just plain works, isn't harsh, doesn't dive badly, and doesn't chatter over low speed bumps or "washboard" road surface, all of which I found the stock forks did. The touring does have quite a different fork setup from the roadster so I expect the gold valves will do wonders for you (wish the Roadster could use them).

Interestingly, high speed weave/wobble on a bike as delivered is very easy to induce because of the inappropriate/unbalanced damping and spring rates in the forks. The gold valves will likely stabilize the feel at speed a lot.

@Navigator KFG....mmhmm, as good as it gets!

Paul do you know what he set your air gap at?

Have to ask him @Kevin frazier

Joesmoe said:

Have to ask him @Kevin frazier

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Ok thank you, seems like whatever he set yours too it’s perfect for our bikes

@Tripps the emulators paul installed and correct air gap might fix or help your weave per robs response above, I don’t have the weave but if paul said it made it feel like a new ride I’m going for it

I'll send MRP a note and report back here.