Thermostat removal

My thermos fan is set at 95C.

I am running a water wetter race coolant which helps keeps the heat exchange under control.

I don't need a Glycol based coolant here our cold weather temps are just not low enough.

Just FYI, it is my experience in cars that a surfactant (water-wetter)&water (SW) indicates temperatures hotter than EG&water (EG), however, the engine seems to run cooler (less detonation, more power, etc). It *seems* almost like the SW allows more heat transfer (cooler head, warmer coolant) than the EG.

In addition, it used to be most tracks around here would not allow EG. It wouldn't evaporate, was slick, and required heat/flames to remove from track surfaces
 
For heat transfer, for liquids water is almost magic. No low cost material can match it. We add ethylene glycol, although it reduces the net thermal conductivity, for both protection at the low end, and more importantly, allowing the engine to run hotter without the coolant boiling.

Remember from your thermodynamics class, efficiency is gained as a function of the temperature delta between the hot and cold reservoirs, and the push over the years for both increased mileage and reduced pollutants has seen incremental increases in operating temperatures. Performance in jet engines over the past seventy years have largely come with advances in metallurgy and cooling tricks in the turbine blades that allowed an upward march of the Forward Turbine Inlet Temperature. In fighter planes, pilots are allowed to mess with this in an emergency, (e.g., do this one time to get away with your life - but the engine has to be rebuilt when you land), and while I don't have any recent data, in early days, a few pilots would overuse that feature, and lose the airplane when the engine came apart. If they were doing it supersonic speed, they lost their lives in the bargain.
 
For heat transfer, for liquids water is almost magic. No low cost material can match it. We add ethylene glycol, although it reduces the net thermal conductivity, for both protection at the low end, and more importantly, allowing the engine to run hotter without the coolant boiling.

Remember from your thermodynamics class, efficiency is gained as a function of the temperature delta between the hot and cold reservoirs, and the push over the years for both increased mileage and reduced pollutants has seen incremental increases in operating temperatures. Performance in jet engines over the past seventy years have largely come with advances in metallurgy and cooling tricks in the turbine blades that allowed an upward march of the Forward Turbine Inlet Temperature. In fighter planes, pilots are allowed to mess with this in an emergency, (e.g., do this one time to get away with your life - but the engine has to be rebuilt when you land), and while I don't have any recent data, in early days, a few pilots would overuse that feature, and lose the airplane when the engine came apart. If they were doing it supersonic speed, they lost their lives in the bargain.

Water does help, but the surfactant is the big difference, it modifies the surface tension reducing insulating-effect of localized boiling at the heads improving heat transfer. That is the reason the water is warmer, but the engine seems cooler. I always wonders if dish soap would have done the same for my race engines. Corrosion was never an issue in motors that were completely gone though ~200 passes.

A good read
https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/WaterWetter Tech Info.pdf
 
I know this is an old thread - I just removed and replaced the T/Stat twice in the last week.

You say why twice - well the thermostat supplied by Triumph was 2C hotter than the one I removed - was running at 91/92C cool weather under little load and I will not accept that crap.

So I have now fitted a 82C Tridon Hi-Flo Thermostat PN: TT2003-180.

I did have to remove some machining flash from the inside of the thermostat seat in the head with a dramel.

You can remove and replace the thermostat without removing the oil tank - ask me how I know.

I would appreciate advice on how to remove thermostat without removing the oil tank. Installed new hoses and clamps today but also bought a new thermostat as I figured might as well while I’m in the vicinity. Can’t access the lower bolt. Help please!
 
I would appreciate advice on how to remove thermostat without removing the oil tank. Installed new hoses and clamps today but also bought a new thermostat as I figured might as well while I’m in the vicinity. Can’t access the lower bolt. Help please!

we might need @John Miller to give us a tutorial? i took mine to a bike shop, came back loose and was leaking coolant again *insert very pissed customer here* .. my bike is sitting there waiting to be ridden once i can tighten the lower thermostat bolt!
 
Check out this masterpiece of engineering - haha. Works a treat.

In situ Lower thermostat bolt removal - Service Tool #DIY01.


MyTspanner.jpg


By the way it's the ring end you need to use - not the open end off cut.
 
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Check out this masterpiece of engineering - haha. Works a treat.

In situ Lower thermostat bolt removal - Service Tool #DIY01.


MyTspanner.jpg


By the way it's the ring end you need to use - not the open end off cut.
thank you for posting this!
 
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