There is more to bearings than who made them. Some manufacturers are better than others but many other factors apply as well. ABEC- ratings tell much about a bearing. Size tolerance, axial and radial free play, ball sphericity to name a few. Just as important as the bearing is how they are mounted. Bore size in the wheel, axle OD, side load from bores too shallow or too deep, adjacent bore eccentricity, bore roundness, and on and on. Then there is the installation: beat them in place and you risk damage. Press on the wrong race and you risk damage, put too much pressure on the race from overly-tight axle nuts and the inner race distorts. Need I go on? Some wheel bearing issues may be specific to a particular wheel for the aforementioned reasons. Others may not be.
Buy name brand: NSK, SKF, Timken, RBC, INA and others and ask for better grade ABEC-3 or 5 specification bearings. These manufacturers have reputations to protect; generics do not as it is almost impossible to determine who made a particular bearing if it has no branding on the race side. Check wheel bores for imperfections, gouges, evidence of spun races, etc. Check spacer ends to see if the bearing(s) inner races have been spinning. If they have, chances are the spacer is shorter than original. Look for wear marks on the axle OD. Install them with the right tools, check feel after installation and then once the wheel is in place. If it doesn't feel smooth, something is wrong.
