Hi - no power to my clocks

Mikebdomain

Standard Bore
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
7
Ride
2010 rocket 3 Roadster
Hi everyone I’ve got a 2010 roadster

Started having problems with the instrument panel flashing on and off and resetting and starting first thing in the morning. I first noticed the clocks resetting whilst parking the bike with the handlebars full turn.

Decided to investigate the issue and raised the tank to find a proper jumbled mess.... after a couple of wiggles the clocks come back to life and the bike started ok, - so I figured it was the connection block I wiggled that had the issue, after freeing everything I lost all clocks and no turning over...

I have lights, indicators and horns and I hear relays click when I turn the key, I have no clocks and do not hear the fuel pump. The bikes in neutral and the kill switch is fine - I suspected a corroded connector block, but have checked them all and they seem fine (all cleaned). I have 12v at the ignition connector block and have measured 12v at one of the soldered connections on the bottom of the ignition.... I’m now suspecting a broken wire somewhere in the loom, the ignition itself or a relay..... anyone got any experience of where to start
 
Did you check all the ignition switch barrel contacts? If memory serves, a broken solder joint at the switch can cause your problems.
 
Well only visually - I checked there was power at the switch, but have no idea of what outs should have power when the switch is on, also no idea on how to remove the ignition switch itself to get a better look at it.....
 
Sounds like the purple wire crimp in the loom feeding power to the instruments. Check and see if you have any bolts on purple wire at instruments. This crimp is notorious for corroding and breaking wire. Many threads on this issue
 
The key-switch feeds power out to the green wire (on the main harness side of the key-switch connector) and goes from there directly to the kill/run switch .
Key-switch failures (within the switch) are rare on roadsters because they are switching minimal current - that does not preclude possibility of mechanical failure due to stress on the harness.
I would inspect the key-switch connector (both sides) and the connector for the right bar switch and also manipulate both harnesses on either side of those respective connectors to try to influence (or temporarily reverse) a broken wire from a stressed condition
 
The key-switch feeds power out to the green wire (on the main harness side of the key-switch connector) and goes from there directly to the kill/run switch .
Key-switch failures (within the switch) are rare on roadsters because they are switching minimal current - that does not preclude possibility of mechanical failure due to stress on the harness.
I would inspect the key-switch connector (both sides) and the connector for the right bar switch and also manipulate both harnesses on either side of those respective connectors to try to influence (or temporarily reverse) a broken wire from a stressed condition
 
I will check that I have power out from that wire the first chance I get.... gonna be next weekend now.... thanks for the wiring diagram - gonna study that this week
 
Purple wire, crappy crimp, deep in the main harness

(A few inches forward of the heated grips plug)

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this what happens them (this is the other one, where reg/rec plug joins main harness)

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Motor surging


Also, check your VIN on Safety Recall Search | Triumph Motorcycles to verify there is no outstanding recalls on your bike - there was one for '10 Roadsters for the headlight relay/saving the ignition wires....
 
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I just have had the same problem and thanks to Turbo help I got onto it, see my photo.
A86919AA-9C72-4738-9FD8-20BC37BB7C4B.jpeg
 
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