The whole CCA thing is bollix anyway. And especially when it comes to Lithiums.
To start you need a couple of things
To turn over the starter motor. His mightiness
@DEcosse may have measured the real amperage required. The issue is that the voltage also drops as the cells discharge. This will ramp up the amps: which in turn drops the volts until we get relay chattering.
Also and possibly more importantly may drop the real battery voltage below 9 or 10 volts at which point the ECU will steadfastly refuse to operate.
The battery thing is a mix of two things. The chemistry used and the surface area available for chemical reaction. One way to increase surface area is to reduce plate thickness, This makes the plates susceptible to damage from bumps, vibration and over time chemical erosion. It will also make them far more sensitive to cold or extreme heat which if it contains liquid is an issue.
ime - high rated lead acid batteries do not fade with age - one day they simply die usually because a plate or cell has fractured. Also ime sealed lead acid batteries fail in warmer areas faster - they go dry. I've kept "sealed" batteries alive by the good old fashioned distilled water method - by unsealing them. AGM will also dry out and if you can get in you can again add distilled water. Gel batteries - the gel usually will not hydrate. I have NEVER had a lead Acid freeze on me - but I have heard that they can. If it's that ruddy cold - I personally will not be outside.
I have a Commercial Lithium (LiFEP04) in the R3. It's fine in Spain - but parked in my mums (dank) garage in cold/cool damp weather you need to remember that cold lithium have to be used a bit to warm up the chemistry before hitting the starter.
I have a small 8AH Lithium I made myself - that will turn over a 2.5 turbo diesel in the freezing cold including the glow plugs. It has a huge discharge rate of 70 times the AH rating. But does not last long. No electronics there though. This battery was in my 1979 Guzzi. I went back to Lead Acid when I rebuilt the whole charging/wiring but more because it lacked proper wire anchorage. I do like 4 post batteries.
If you want a reliable monster blaster Lithium battery - it needs to be based on A123 round cells. The pouch technologies are NOT as good ime. I would also personally insist it was based on the A123 ANR26650m1B 2500mAh LiFePO4 - period. My "home made" uses the A123 8AH cells - sadly now out of production. You can weld using them.
