So....
Starts good, runs good, doesn't miss even when I deliberately lug in high gear, where it really showed up before.
But I have the check engine light on now. I've never had it come on in all the time I owned it. Would unhooking battery, blowing fuse, or trying to start with blown fuse cause that, and will it reset on its own? No code I saw, I assume that code would show in information screen?
 
If you turned on ignition while something was disconnected that would have set your MIL
(no fuses or battery disconnect would cause an MIL)
You need TuneECU (or other OBD Code Reader) to pull the code(s) and clear it - but almost certainly as I explained, from turning on while something disconnected (even instruments)

The light will go out after it completes 3 complete warm-up/cool-down cycles (coolant operating temp) - assuming the fault that tripped it is no longer present - but the code will remain logged until it is cleared.
 
And the saga continues.....
Got a few hundred miles on the bike, including a 100+ mile day, no problems. Did a hundred plus mile ride yesterday, including a couple 120 mph blasts when Dan foolishly thought he was going to sneak past me on his Guzzi, and it apparently got hot enough for the problem to return. CPS on the way, it's a fairly cheap part.
 
120 lol that’s what you saw as you probably looked down at speedometer as you were passing dan and I can’t help but thank that carpenter engine would have really been whacked about that point to let dan feel the burn real good. Heck I bet he did it on purpose just to see the beast get unleashed, sounds like a blast, brothers kicking it
 
Well, bummer. Crank position sensor is on 3week backorder from Triumph in England, (I sure hope it's not unavailable), supposedly something in their computer system down, and naturally the couple used ones on internet have now disappeared
I pulled it hoping there was metal debris on it, no luck, clean as a whistle, ruled that out.
Sitting and waiting, I can do local rides, but I don't want to get too far from home now.
 
You really can't, because it works fine until the engine gets hot, then malfunctions, works fine again as soon as it cools down. Internet research says that's common with CPS. And losing the tach signal pretty much confirms it's the CPS. I wasn't optimistic anyway, debris has other symptoms usually, hard starting and idling, etc.
 
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