Time for turbo install

@flash How are you planning on tackling tuning? How familiar with are you with turboing an engine never intended to be turbocharged? Are you planning to intercool it?

What I've used in the past and will use again, for the oil feed is cold rolled steel brake line tubing, bent with a small bender to provide the perfect shape, then use flared ends on AN fittings to secure. The advantage is that once it's in place, and not leaking, it pretty much never will. It's also tons cheaper than braided hose and tons easier to work with, not to mention the metal won't degrade over time like the rubber/viton in the braided lines eventually will, it'll also survive better near the exhaust flange. For the drain however, I recommend using AN coupled, braided line, since it's down low, the braided will take a hit from dirt/debris better in the long run since it'll deform and return instead of snapping when a rock hits it.

For the water feed, AN coupled braided is the only way to go IMHO.

Rudimentary drawing, much easier to visualize this than type it out.

The flow restrictor in the turbo will preclude starvation in the engine if setup in this manner. The way your manifold is built, the drain line can be done with a 45 degree canted fitting on the oil pan, and a straight fitting out of the turbo. The drain will have a nice "downhill" slope preventing any puddling. The bikes with the turbos back where the ABS goes, under the seat, have to do it slightly differently, they are not a good guide for your particular application.
Oil Flow DIagram.jpg
 
@flash How are you planning on tackling tuning? How familiar with are you with turboing an engine never intended to be turbocharged? Are you planning to intercool it?

What I've used in the past and will use again, for the oil feed is cold rolled steel brake line tubing, bent with a small bender to provide the perfect shape, then use flared ends on AN fittings to secure. The advantage is that once it's in place, and not leaking, it pretty much never will. It's also tons cheaper than braided hose and tons easier to work with, not to mention the metal won't degrade over time like the rubber/viton in the braided lines eventually will, it'll also survive better near the exhaust flange. For the drain however, I recommend using AN coupled, braided line, since it's down low, the braided will take a hit from dirt/debris better in the long run since it'll deform and return instead of snapping when a rock hits it.

For the water feed, AN coupled braided is the only way to go IMHO.

Rudimentary drawing, much easier to visualize this than type it out.

The flow restrictor in the turbo will preclude starvation in the engine if setup in this manner. The way your manifold is built, the drain line can be done with a 45 degree canted fitting on the oil pan, and a straight fitting out of the turbo. The drain will have a nice "downhill" slope preventing any puddling. The bikes with the turbos back where the ABS goes, under the seat, have to do it slightly differently, they are not a good guide for your particular application.
Oil Flow DIagram.jpg
Hi Claviger thanks for the response , i will tackle the tuning down the track i do have tuneecu capability and also know someone with a quad bike dyno . I do intend on intercooling i have a little intercooler that i will plumb into the front of the bike. Thats great advice on type of tubing for running the oil feed and return lines , i have a bit of an idea of how it all works my main concern is just where to run the lines to the motor, eg can i just tee off the oil pressure sensor switch at the rear of the motor ,? And exactly where do i tap into on the motor for the return line so it doesnt puddle like you said. Also is it better to run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator as i am currently running an external pump with a toyota v6 regulator .?
 
Hi Claviger thanks for the response , i will tackle the tuning down the track i do have tuneecu capability and also know someone with a quad bike dyno . I do intend on intercooling i have a little intercooler that i will plumb into the front of the bike. Thats great advice on type of tubing for running the oil feed and return lines , i have a bit of an idea of how it all works my main concern is just where to run the lines to the motor, eg can i just tee off the oil pressure sensor switch at the rear of the motor ,? And exactly where do i tap into on the motor for the return line so it doesnt puddle like you said. Also is it better to run a rising rate fuel pressure regulator as i am currently running an external pump with a toyota v6 regulator .?

For oil feed the sandwich plate I linked on page 1 provides an oil feed, but, you must return to the second port on it like in my diagram, that's the engine supply!

For the coolant feed, look here at the metal tube. Weld on an AN make -6 and the run it to the turbo.:
20190718_144404.jpg 20190718_144402.jpg

This is an high reliable solution for water cooling, though, that's secondary to getting the oil line right.

For oil return, you're going to need to drop the pan anyways, look in this area:
20190718_144633.jpg

For tuning I must be honest, I'm not a big fan of RRFPRs, but they can be made to work.

The ideal solution would be a PC-V, PC Ignition, PC 3 BAR MAP sensor.

Then you can retard ignition timing based on the boost pressure your getting, I'd start with -3 per PSI until it's on a Dyno to carefully dial in.

It will also let you get it tuned NA, then add % fuel per PSI of boost, which is great because different gears are going to spool the turbo differently and at different RPM, so tuning just using the F table is sketchy at best and is likely to result in broken ring lands ( haven't heard of a turbo R3 on stock pistons that hasn't broken it's ring lands yet).

For the fuel pu.p setup, I can't strongly enough recommend the Corvette 4 BAR regulator/filter, cheap and very easy to fit. Pair it with a pump big enough to support 350whp, like the Walbro 342, and you'll be set. The initial pressure at 4bar will be good since you'll need more fuel, the. You can go 1 of a few ways, bigger injectors (450cc at 4bar -550cc at 3 bar), RRFPR, or an external pressure reg that has a vacuum/boost reference.
 
Boost sensitive mapping is the way to go, as above. Also I have available 1000cc injectors if needed, then you will only need 3.5 bar FP improving low speed tuning, F/A cam grinds etc etc... Moving the torque UP is better to stop the teeth falling off the gears etc etc.... Good luck.
 
Ok just giving an update i spoke to James from S and R who make the kit , he says they dont worry about running the water cooling and being a ballbearing turbo the oil feed is enough. He uses the sandwhich plate and for the return line they use a little canister with its own oil pump. So.this is what i ended up doing , i tapped into the oil sender switch at the rear of the engine , when i took it off it had a shaft with a reasonably long thread on it so all i did was use a banjo fitting behind it and ran flexi hose to steel hose to the top of the turbo.
20190721_132950.jpg
20190721_132937.jpg

For the return line i drilled a hole and tapped it where Claviger suggested and ran the hose straight to the sump. I had the fitting i used lying around but will use a 45 degree bend to it as it will be neater and less likely to be hit , thanks again for that Claviger. Heres a couple more pics.
20190721_105819.jpg
20190721_110236.jpg
20190721_094054.jpg
I started the bike up the oil is running through , theres no leaks and the turbo is spinning and blowing plenty of air . Next stage is plumbing in the intercooler .
 
Back
Top