Hello guys,
I was just bussy pushing back the brake pistons on the aft caliper.
And when pushing them inside I pushed strait true the insert cup (see attached picture)
I checked the workshop manual to find this part, and also checked several website's but nowhere I can find this cup/cover
Also I would like to know if anybody can give me the purpose of this cup/cover and if somebody has experiance to continue withouth the cup/cover.
On the movie in the link below, you can see the pistons wich also have the cups/cover.
There are some important tips that can be viewed in a YouTube on the same subject. Ill try to find it.
1. Loosen everything before taking the caliper off the bike. Unless you have a good vice. The rear caliper on the R3 is a "one piece, not one your split open.
2. Prepare to hang the brake line somewhere safe where the leaking brake fluid will not get on the paint.
3. Take the pads off and force the pistons out. If one refuses, block the other and press the stubborn one out.
4. If you are going to use compressed air, block the pistons from flying out with a small piece of wood or an old pad.
5. Have an old open bottle of DOT4 to use as cleaner.
6. Prepare your table with a clean towel like you do for your guns.
7. In case your only have a lip to grab to pull a cylinder have a set of vice grips and a protective piece of rubber to grab the piston. No scratching anything OK?
8. Use only a clean no lint towel to clean the pistons. A non-metal scrub is OK but no metal please. DOT4 as cleaner. Soak the stubborn one overnight.
9. If you have an ultrasound tub, DOT4 container with caliper is best. No acid!
10. No US, soft old tooth brush and DOT.
11. Pick the old seals out with a toothpick. No screwdrivers!
12. Q Tips to clean the groves where the seals were.
13. Give the exterior a serious clean with DOT and a hard brush.
14. With gloves on, spray clean the caliper with Brake Cleaner and compressed air.
15. Place all your new parts on the bench and determine with seals go where. The usually are of two different sizes.
16. Lightly grease the seals and groves with the red grease that comes in the kit. Otherwise clear assembly grease will work. Very light on the grease.
17. The outside of the seal is flat. The piston side of the seal is not. Correct positioning of the seals is critical. The previously mentioned video explains how.
18. Insert the seals and insert the piston into the caliper, all the way in.
19. Install your new Speed Bleeder and connect the brake line. Reassemble the axle/caliper/tyre.
20. New pads please. Clean the rotors with brake cleaner. Do not contaminate the disc or the pads with your greasy hands. When you open the brake reservoir do not contaminate it. There is corrosion stuff sitting on the edge ready to fall in. Be ready to get it. Clean the cover and diaphragm well.
21. Bleeding your brake line procedure varies. New bottle of DOT4 please. Some push fluid from the caliper to the reservoir. Some apply a vacuum and suck the fluid from the reservoir. I just exercised the master cylinder adding fluid as it went in. It took a while. I used my Sonicare tooth brush to vibrate bubbles out. Tapping the lines works. It took forever. Called Scott to see if I had messed up. The vacuum pump is on my shop list.
20. When you feel pressure tighten the bleeder, replace the reservoir cap and you can go have a beer.
21. Follow the pad seating procedure, whatever you like or the box say. Start with long slow braking. The say 300 miles, the spend a week in Maggie Valley.
Be sure your seals are inserted correctly. Don't let the brake fluid get on your paint. Don't contaminate the discs or pads! Don't scratch the piston or interior of the caliper. Treat the process like your cleaning a gun. Brembo stopped selling seal kits because folks were putting the seals in wrong, got in a crash and sued Brembo.
Like Sonny say, "Enjoy the upgrade" I think I enjoy working on my TwoTone as much as he does on his X
Screwdriver this is where rick faints
