:)
Hmm. Yet another way to part ways with my money. Recall I have a BMW too. I'm not sure I need another way! Actually, I've discovered Triumph's willingness to take my money already with the keyswitch that has failed...and I have a jumpy transmission in second gear. Interestingly, the second gear slip seems to occur as the engine and oil get hotter. I'm wondering if a different viscosity oil would do anything. I know there are others who have had this issue, but I haven't read all the threads yet to see what solutions are out there.

I saw some people who have modified their ignition switches and they talked about having to cut the keyswitch mounting bracket out. That is a bit concerning. Mine was held in place with some special bolts, but just took a 4 mm socket (or was it 4.5 mm? - can't remember at the moment) and some patience. Anyway, a new Moto-Gadget keyless ignition is on its way as my first shot at resolving the ignition issue.

Since you offered, I'll ask: how is a guy supposed to know what aftermarket seat is right for his particular butt? Seems like a pretty high price to pay for some of these things without being sure that whatever I get is going to solve the issue. I do know that the stock seat I have is very hard on the tailbone after a short period of time.

I see that Triumph has a special going on their "Longhaul" seats for my bike, but that is a unit that combines the driver and passenger seats into one unit rather than the two separate seats that I currently have and I don't really know if it will be any better than what I currently have. I have also heard good things about the Russel Day-Long seat...at least that what I think it is, but I've never had either seat to personally test.

Sigh,

Greg
First off if you examine the bottom of the seat you'll see its part of the ductwork for the air filter. So unless your bike has had the airbox removed and replaced with triple K&Ns or a Ramair you are kinda stuck with a Triumph seat. Several folks here have had their existing seats modified with changes in foam ect.. The transmission question is much better asked to others here. I hope to never have that issue. I would get that looked into before too many miles though. A wandering circlip can really make a mess of things. Read, read, read you not be sorry.:):):)
 
Welcome from Spain.

Now then for the newbie pledge. Ready? - Ok!

Open your wallet - hold it out and say "Help Yourself".
Given it sounds as if your ignition switch is about to die - consider talking to @DEcosse - his keyless solution really does knock the Motogadget out of the park. For a start it is plug and play.

Thanks, barbagris. Good counsel on the DEcosse keyswitch. I agree, his setup seems awesome. Unfortunately, I need to do something sooner than later: I want to take this bike up to Rolling Thunder in DC this weekend - this, by the way, will be the last year that they do this in memory of POWs and MIAs. Expecting well over 300,000 motorcycles in Washington on Sunday...so I don't have the luxury of waiting on availability from DEcosse. Since the MotoGadget was less than the Triumph keyswitch, I will go that route and if need be come back to DEcosse when I have more time and the need.

Cheers,
Greg
 
Thanks, barbagris. Good counsel on the DEcosse keyswitch. I agree, his setup seems awesome. Unfortunately, I need to do something sooner than later: I want to take this bike up to Rolling Thunder in DC this weekend - this, by the way, will be the last year that they do this in memory of POWs and MIAs. Expecting well over 300,000 motorcycles in Washington on Sunday...so I don't have the luxury of waiting on availability from DEcosse. Since the MotoGadget was less than the Triumph keyswitch, I will go that route and if need be come back to DEcosse when I have more time and the need. Cheers,
Greg
You might find @idk has a neat home built keyless solution you can maybe adapt. If you look at any post of his - the "how to" is in his signature.
 
I would recommend to make any wiring to accommodate the Motogadget or idk (or ANY other, really) systems on the original key-switch harness and not on the Main Harness.
This has the benefit of making your own system 'plug n play' for easy install or removal while preserving the integrity of your OEM Main harness.
I would also recommend to use THREE relays, not coupling all three OEM-Switch circuits into a single one.
The three circuits are
White to Brown (lighting)
White to Yellow (Ignition)
White/Black to White/Green (Turns/Brake/Horn)
Join the Red to the Blue (parking light circuit)

You can also source the M-Lock power (to red wire) from the White.
Be sure to use a proper 'ground' - the frame is NOT an active ground.
Connect to the battery negative.

Since you already have the OEM key-switch off, you can also attempt repair - pull off the cover on the bottom of the switch assembly and you will likely find a loose/detached wire from the switch plate (most often the white one) - you may be able to re-solder that.
 

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welcome Captain:) from Maine, enjoy your S-miles, most of us here are torque addicts, enjoy mine best in second gear:D

hoopla
 
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