Hot Rear Brakes

Speaking of pins, I found a good tip several years back on how to clean the pin that the pads slide across- sometimes the pads can stick a little moving across the pin if it's dirty or dry.

Place the very tip (non-threaded side) into your drill and spin it while holding a piece of very fine sandpaper across the pin. Comes out shiny and slick. I do it every time I pull the pads to clean or replace them.
 
Wow! Lot's of good tips! In the old days, I have seen rubber brake lines deteriorate inside, to the point of having a piece loose enough to act line a check valve, and not let the pressure off. And I have also seen the caliper pins develop a groove over time, that tends to let the caliper hang up and not float free. I have occasionally felt both the front and rear discs after a ride, and they are always fairly warm/hot to the point you wouldn't want to hold on to them for very long, but never boiling/sizzling spit hot. I do like the idea of moving the pistons out, and cleaning. Never thought of that.:sneaky:
 
John Miller said:
Prior to owning the R3 working on cars the caliper guide pins are usually a little stiff which is still acceptable, on the R3 it's not acceptable to have any real stiffness sliding the caliper on the guide pins for the rear caliper. This was causing the rear disc to get hot and I mean really Fkn hot. After pulling the pads on mine I tried to slide the caliper on the pins - it was a no go. Not until I found the front pin was binding/grabbing or stopping the caliper sliding did I fix the thing. Now the caliper will slide on the pins freely with almost no resistance - I now have a cool rear disc no longer does it get hot from just normal riding. I can grab the caliper and rock it on the pins and I feel the slightest free play or movement (before I cleared the front pin stiffness - it was solid with no free play at all) this was causing the caliper to bind on the pins with the brake applied and it wouldn't retract properly causing the pads to then bind because the caliper was sticking on the pins.

If it's not the issue on your machine then that's good, others however with a similar issue might want to check the caliper pins for freedom of movement before you start looking elsewhere - just remember the caliper should float on the pins with little or no resistance.

Hope this is helpful to someone.
Click to expand...

I did notice that. I think these have become stiff out of me lubricating them and attracting dirt. Why do you think yours got sticky? The kit I ordered has the rubber boots that cover the pins. Should these be lubricated at all!?:thumbsdown:
 
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1K9 said:
I did notice that. I think these have become stiff out of me lubricating them and attracting dirt. Why do you think tours got sticky? The kit I ordered has the rubber boots that cover the pins. Should these be lubricated at all!?:thumbsdown:
Click to expand...
DRY LUBE. i.e GRAPHITE or MOS2 powder - there are some "dry" sprays: at least there were I 've not seen them on sale for a while. Drop the pins in the brass ammo case polisher with a bit of moly powder.
 
Since the pictures on the manual suck.
IMG_0615.JPG
Rear caliper with pistons removed.

IMG_0617.JPG IMG_0616.JPG

Rear pin and rubber boot

IMG_0618.JPG

Front pin and rubber boot

I think this is what we are talking about. These allow for the caliper to "float" I lubed these at one time and think this is what has caused my problem. Miller, am I correct?
 
barbagris said:
DRY LUBE. i.e GRAPHITE or MOS2 powder - there are some "dry" sprays: at least there were I 've not seen them on sale for a while. Drop the pins in the brass ammo case polisher with a bit of moly powder.
Click to expand...

The thing is that this pin and boot are going to get hot. If the lube deteriorates with heat, you are sticky. Ill let the new boot dry and clean the pin with brake fluid.
 
If the boot is ok you should be able to use either grease or dry lube, I feel certain that mine started freezing up simply through grease drying out and dust /dirt entry getting past the boot. I just kept spraying it with penetrating oil and working it until it freed up, flushing out all the crap. I haven't put any other lube on the pin since (over 12 months ago - 10,000km) still good.

1K9 said:
Front pin and rubber boot

I think this is what we are talking about. These allow for the caliper to "float" I lubed these at one time and think this is what has caused my problem. Miller, am I correct?
Click to expand...

If the pin does not slide in and out real easy then its a problem, you need to clean it up and get rid of the corrosion and dirt particles and assemble, lube and make sure the boot is ok and go again, just remember it must float / slide on the pins real easy.
 
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