1K9
No'mo Rocket 4 me
That's what I ran yesterday. Will try 40 today and see.
Clicking Noise in the Rear Wheel
- Thread starter R3Tex
- Start date
-
- Tags
- final drive
That's what I ran yesterday. Will try 40 today and see.
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
albertaduke
former airline pilot without the big bucks
check with olbull he had that same problem
Idaho Red Rocket 3
Living Legend
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2008
- Messages
- 5,590
- Location
- Nampa, Idaho USA
- Ride
- 2006 RIII Standard Bagger w/Fairing
I changed my rear tire yesterday. Took the drive unit off and lubed the drive shaft splines well with Honda Moly 60. Did the wheel splines too. I did notice my right side (disc) bearing would not turn by hand. All seamed well when reinstalled wheel. Spun free with no noises. What do you think ?
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
Tis been a year and a half.
Pretty sure Morris has it fixed by now!
Pretty sure Morris has it fixed by now!
Gregger
Living Legend
You never really know. The right side disc bearing seems to always be very hard to turn by hand when I remove the wheel. All other bearings are much freer. I've never felt any roughness in the bearings. Once removed, you would swear that the bearings were still good. I've had the clicking noise happen 3 times. Once when my rim was split. The second time I installed a new rim, torqued it to 81 ft/lbs and put around 10,000 kilometers on it with no issues. Drove across Canada and the dealer replaced my rear tire along the way. Bearings weren't touched. Within 2000 kilometers on my return trip back home, the dreaded clicking noise started and stayed with me until I reached home. Pulled the rear wheel, couldn't see anything wrong that the dealer might have done to cause the problem, replaced the bearings and torqued the wheel to 75 ft/lbs. All was well for around 2500 kilometers. Then the dreaded clicking noise started again. Pulled the wheel again to check the bearings (disc brake side bearing was very tight every time). Couldn't find anything. Lubed the cush drive and reinstalled wheel torquing initially to 81 ft/lbs. The clicking noise was still there. I then backed off the axle nut to 25 ft/lbs, noticed a slight snapping noise as the nut was released and left it at that torque (25). Been like that for just under a 1000 kilometers with no noise what so ever. Replacement bearing set is on the shelf.
Now I'm beginning to wonder if the spacer isn't somehow slightly cocked sitting between the bearings and somehow causing the noise.
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
Journeyman
"And this one is just right" ~ Goldilocks
Well, I'm back. 13,500 miles later and the rear bearing (brake side) is tight again. Checked the front wheel (original bearings) and one side is even tighter at 38,500 miles. I just ordered both sets from All Balls.
Nearly 40K on the front seems reasonable, but the rear going out so soon is troublesome- worse even than @1olbull is reporting. Btw, the existing spacer has what seems to be just the right amount of slop between the two bearings, so they are not jammed against the spacer and causing a bind.
I fought like, ahhh, heck... last time to get those bearings out and thought the ones I replaced would come out easier, but the blind puller is just not budging any of them. Last time I used a torch to heat the rim before the bearings would finally pull out. I guess before I do that again I'll like to ask if using a torch could potentially damage the rim. Like I said, I did it that way before after seeing this video, but it made me pretty nervous.
I rarely throw in the towel, but with all four calling for a fight I might just surrender and have the shop pull the bearings.
Forgot to add that, yes, I do use a torque wrench on the axle. @Rocket Scientist said "I snug mine up and call it good. The manual wants them so tight, I believe it crushes the spacer, which then stresses the bearings against the locating step."
You may be on to something, but I don't trust myself going by feel (with bikes ;-). If there's a torque setting that might be tight enough, but not too tight, I'm all ears.
Nearly 40K on the front seems reasonable, but the rear going out so soon is troublesome- worse even than @1olbull is reporting. Btw, the existing spacer has what seems to be just the right amount of slop between the two bearings, so they are not jammed against the spacer and causing a bind.
I fought like, ahhh, heck... last time to get those bearings out and thought the ones I replaced would come out easier, but the blind puller is just not budging any of them. Last time I used a torch to heat the rim before the bearings would finally pull out. I guess before I do that again I'll like to ask if using a torch could potentially damage the rim. Like I said, I did it that way before after seeing this video, but it made me pretty nervous.
I rarely throw in the towel, but with all four calling for a fight I might just surrender and have the shop pull the bearings.
Forgot to add that, yes, I do use a torque wrench on the axle. @Rocket Scientist said "I snug mine up and call it good. The manual wants them so tight, I believe it crushes the spacer, which then stresses the bearings against the locating step."
You may be on to something, but I don't trust myself going by feel (with bikes ;-). If there's a torque setting that might be tight enough, but not too tight, I'm all ears.
Last edited:
sonny
Living Legend
Oh my god. What a ****ing moron. Follow the video and it is a accident ready to happen.Yes Truimph Over does it on the torque. Around 100 MM does the job. Bet you the guy on the video wears them funny looking slim jeans****ing joke.
****ing joke.
1olbull
Riding Motor Since 1950
Oh my god. What a ****ing moron. Follow the video and it is a accident ready to happen.Yes Truimph Over does it on the torque. Around 100 MM does the job. Bet you the guy on the video wears them funny looking slim jeans
Sonny,
What is "MM"?
