Bernard Vinet
Frenchbernie
What I installed was a Super Loud Stebel Nautilus Compact Twin Air Horn. You could goes check it out on Amazon. Tried to put link but just won't work for me this morning.
What I installed was a Super Loud Stebel Nautilus Compact Twin Air Horn. You could goes check it out on Amazon. Tried to put link but just won't work for me this morning.
ZoneIII
Supercharged
It looks like you may not have read my original post. The horns I'm talking about aren't air horns and they don't have a monster load. The P1AA horns only draw a total of 4.3 amps total. (1.95 amps for the 500Hz horn and 2.35 amps for the 400Hz horn (I measured them). From that 4.3 total amps, subtract the 1.5 amps that the OEM horn draws and that means the dual horns will only draw and additional 2.8 amps - not anywhere near the amps your air horn draws. Air horns are a completely different situation. Also, as I said, not only does the manufacturer insist that you don't need a relay with these horns but apparently many users are using them without a relay and having no problems at all. Check out the video I linked for one example. That said, I'm leaning towards using a relay anyway.
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ZoneIII
Supercharged
I deleted my previous post mentioning possible mounting methods for the two P1AA Slender horns because I found two better ways. One is to simply mount the horns on a U-bracket to the large bolt in the center of the big black fork casting. I think that bolt holds the headlight or it might be used for headlight adjustment but I would have to look closer or look in my service manual to know for sure. In any case, it would be simple to mount a U-bracket to that big bolt.
The second method is to mount one angle bracket (either cut from a piece of aluminum angle stock or a bent piece of aluminum strap) to the large bolt that held the original OEM horn on. Then, if you look to the left of that when facing from the front of the bike, there's another bolt in the same relative position to the left. It's a smaller bolt but it would work fine. The horns are lightweight. In either case, if I thought any of the joints might twist over time, I would fix that a set screw or a rivet but I don't think that will be an issue.
Neither of these methods involves any drilling or modifications to the bike.
I'll probably get around to doing this in the next week or so. I'll try to remember to post a picture when I'm done. Keep in mind that what I've said applies to a R3T.
The second method is to mount one angle bracket (either cut from a piece of aluminum angle stock or a bent piece of aluminum strap) to the large bolt that held the original OEM horn on. Then, if you look to the left of that when facing from the front of the bike, there's another bolt in the same relative position to the left. It's a smaller bolt but it would work fine. The horns are lightweight. In either case, if I thought any of the joints might twist over time, I would fix that a set screw or a rivet but I don't think that will be an issue.
Neither of these methods involves any drilling or modifications to the bike.
I'll probably get around to doing this in the next week or so. I'll try to remember to post a picture when I'm done. Keep in mind that what I've said applies to a R3T.
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barbagris
Mad Scientist
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Nope - My Stebels are NOT air horns. They are however LOUD. I run them via a PDM60 and allow them 10A each.
ZoneIII
Supercharged
The P1AA horns I have don't pull anywhere near that amperage and they are VERY loud. They only pull 4.3 amps together. In fact, they sound just like a car from the 70s or earlier.
ZoneIII
Supercharged
I think I mentioned that I would post pictures of what I came up with for installing the set of P1AA horns on my R3T so that it may help someone else thinking of doing this. Or it may give someone and idea for a similar setup. The bracket is made up of 2" x 2" aluminum angle 1/8" thick (cut down to fit the bracket) and 1" aluminum strap 1/8" thick and 7/8" round bar aluminum drilled as shown. I brazed the aluminum angle and flat stock so it's all one piece because it only took a couple minutes but that really isn't necessary. The hardware is stainless steel. Nothing is permanently altered on the bike and it can be put back to factory stock in a couple minutes if, for some reason, someone actually wanted the puny horn that came with the bike. The bolt and SS nyloc nut are not tightened down in the pictures so things aren't pulled into alignment perfectly. This setup gives a lot of adjustment for swinging the horns into the best place. The openings should be pointed down or nearly down, of course. The picture of the horns and bracket held in my hands is roughly how it will be oriented when installed but I'll swing the horns to the best position before tightening them down.
I did get a relay and harness even though these horns don't need it and others who installed them have reported that they work fine without a relay. I just figured, why not use a relay? Here's where I got the relay harness. Of course, it would be easy to make one up but I figured I'd get lazy.
Stebel HF80 Wiring Harness
Here's how it's mounted: When you remove the original horn, there's a spacer block you will remove and won't use for the new horns. The hole the horn was bolted to is one of the holes that the new bracket will mount to. If you look to the left of that hole when facing the front of the bike, you'll see a smaller bolt in line with the one the horn was mounted to. These are the holes the new bracket will bolt to. The long (larger) bolt that bolted the orignal horn and spacer down will be too long so you will have to get a shorter one or cut down the original. I wanted to save the original bolt in case someone in the future wants to put things back to stock so I bought a new SS bolt. It's a little long so I'll have to cut it down. The smaller bolt to the left should work but I bought a new one that is longer and I'll cut it down so it's about 1/4" longer than the original bolt to make up for the thickness of the new bracket.
Of course, I checked everything all along so I know that there's ample clearance and the horns won't hit the fender when the forks are compressed.
Edit: I've added a couple pictures of the horns installed on the bike. It may look like the horns are closer to the fender than the actually are because the horns are farther back than the top of the fender. It's a slight optical illusion. There's more space between the horns and the travel in the forks before the outer (top) tube of the forks bottom out on the inner (bottom) fork tubes. Tomorrow I'll wire up the relay harness.
I did get a relay and harness even though these horns don't need it and others who installed them have reported that they work fine without a relay. I just figured, why not use a relay? Here's where I got the relay harness. Of course, it would be easy to make one up but I figured I'd get lazy.
Stebel HF80 Wiring Harness
Here's how it's mounted: When you remove the original horn, there's a spacer block you will remove and won't use for the new horns. The hole the horn was bolted to is one of the holes that the new bracket will mount to. If you look to the left of that hole when facing the front of the bike, you'll see a smaller bolt in line with the one the horn was mounted to. These are the holes the new bracket will bolt to. The long (larger) bolt that bolted the orignal horn and spacer down will be too long so you will have to get a shorter one or cut down the original. I wanted to save the original bolt in case someone in the future wants to put things back to stock so I bought a new SS bolt. It's a little long so I'll have to cut it down. The smaller bolt to the left should work but I bought a new one that is longer and I'll cut it down so it's about 1/4" longer than the original bolt to make up for the thickness of the new bracket.
Of course, I checked everything all along so I know that there's ample clearance and the horns won't hit the fender when the forks are compressed.
Edit: I've added a couple pictures of the horns installed on the bike. It may look like the horns are closer to the fender than the actually are because the horns are farther back than the top of the fender. It's a slight optical illusion. There's more space between the horns and the travel in the forks before the outer (top) tube of the forks bottom out on the inner (bottom) fork tubes. Tomorrow I'll wire up the relay harness.
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ZoneIII
Supercharged
My 500Hz horn draws 1.95 amps and the 400Hz horn draws 2.35 amps for a total of only 4.3 amps. And they are LOUD!
Jay
E pluribus unum
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Bondysbike
Turbocharged
Broadside
Supercharged
Hi Zonelli I've been using my 500hz slimline on my Rocket for a while now and thinking of a bracket to add the 400hz as well and I won't be using a relay.
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