Rivco Risers How to R3T (pic heavy)

I would bet you are pulling the cable too tight, which is why locating it works out, it relieve the tension. Others have gone with longer cables, I used the stock +1.5 from Barnett, others have done +2.

bob
I wish it were that simple. After I removed that clutch pawl, I never could get it to work correct again. It seems that it has a little spring tension but not as much as normal. When I pull the clutch pawl up manually, it is not disengaging the clutch. I have done this many times on bikes over the years but this one I do not understand.
 
I decided to put some risers on my R3T today and when searching there wasn't a lot about how to do it, plenty on how good it is but that is about it.

So here is a condensed version of the steps.

1) The Rivco instructions are pretty good, to a certain point. As always we know that the best intentions may leave out a few things.

First, gather some tools, along with a set of Allen wrenches and socket set/wrenches you will need;

  • 14mm Socket or wrench to remove the original risers.
  • 17mm socket or wrench to bolt on new risers.
  • Home made short 12mm wrench to loosen the nuts on the lower end of the clutch cable. It could actually be smaller and thinner.
Clutch Cable Wrench.jpg


Now it is time to start taking things apart.

  • Start by removing the left hand side of the radiator shroud. There are 3 allen head bolts that need to come out. The one on the top left and the two on the left side. You can see why here, if you take it off you can access the clutch cable much easier.
Shroud.clutch cable.jpg


Once the Shroud is off you will need to remove the screen, which is held on with one bolt. Once off you have pretty good access to the bottom of the clutch cable.

Shroud off.jpg


Now you can use the special wrench or whatever you have to loosen the bottom nut on the clutch cable so you can move it when taking the clutch cable out of the clutch handle.

Go back to the top of the bike and adjust the clutch cable for as much slack as you can get and remove it from the handle. Now that it is sticking up in the air you can remove one bolt from the frame cover and snake the clutch cable down so it can be positioned behind the triple tree.

Cable rerouted cover installed.jpg




Fram cover loosening.jpg


Once the cable is rerouted you can screw the cover back in place over the clutch cable.

Now that the preliminary stuff is done it is time to swap out the risers.

Make sure you have covered your tank and headlights with your wife's best comforters because she is already pissed you spent nearly 200 dollars for these things, you may as well put the icing on the cake. ;)

Remove the original end cap/s by removing the plastic plugs and then taking the allen bolts out. If you don't have help just take your time and hold onto things so the handle bars don't fall off and into the shiny or painted parts.

Removing bolt cap plugs.jpg


Once the end cap is off lay the handle bars onto your wife's comforter that is covering the tank.

The bolts on the original risers need to be removed. You will need a 14mm wrench at this point for the nuts under the triple tree. When removing the original risers keep the large washers on top of the triple tree in place and do not lose the large, thick washer from the underside of the triple tree, you will need them for the install.

Once the original risers are off put the new ones in place and using the supplied 17mm bolt and lock washer along with the retained original washers hand tighten the risers.

Now all you have to do is put the handlebars in the new risers, bolt on the endcaps to hold the bars in place, go back and tighten the bolts for the risers then adjust your handle bars to where you want them, reinstall the clutch cable and tighten down the end caps to specified torque provided in the instructions. Once all tightened down adjust the clutch cable to 2-3mm of freeplay at the lever. If you can really measure it, most people I have seen guess are usually at about 6mm and that causes clunky shifting and probably isn't too good for the clutch. Make sure to re-tighten the stop nuts on the bottom of the clutch cable. Start it up and go lock to lock on the handle bars to make sure everything works and you don't get an unexpected squirt of fuel when locked to the left.

Reinstall the radiator shroud and you should be good to go out for a spin.

Final.jpg




Happy Motoring.

bob
Penny and a dime get it close on the clutch cable
 
I decided to put some risers on my R3T today and when searching there wasn't a lot about how to do it, plenty on how good it is but that is about it.

Happy Motoring.

bob


Hey Bob.. this is great but have an unrelated question you may be able to answer.. I removed the radiator cap for more room to remove the plastic frame cover and the coolant started pouring out.. about 1/2 cup came out.. Bike was cold, haven't rode in days.. Coolant still to the very top of the coolant filler. Maybe it was just over filled to begin with? Anyway, thought I'd see if everything was okay here, take it ez.. Thanks


1589584641250374173964828731033.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Awesome, hey Kevin I'm here in the garage looking through this forum for proper coolant level and can't find.. I took the fill cap off to have a look and 1/2 cup coolant came pouring out.. Bike was cold haven't rode in days.. Any ideas?
If the coolant bottle isnt there at cap just above then just put cap back on, follow the overflow line to the recovery tank and fill if need be there you will see the recovery whatever was used sounds like stock location of recovery tank was moved not a problem for some to have spilled it probably came from recovery tank but it does fill to where line comes in on top under cap.
 
If the coolant bottle isnt there at cap just above then just put cap back on, follow the overflow line to the recovery tank and fill if need be there you will see the recovery whatever was used sounds like stock location of recovery tank was moved not a problem for some to have spilled it probably came from recovery tank but it does fill to where line comes in on top under cap.

Hmm, it's filled right to the brim under the cap so I can't see a line through the fluid... Maybe I should drain some until I see a "fill line?"
 
****.... when I saw a new post today in this thread, I thought someone was going to say, 'I've got some Rivco risers going begging for a Touring'...... :)
 
Back
Top