Throttlebody Mods and Tune

Claviger

Aspiring Student
Joined
Jul 25, 2014
Messages
6,934
Location
Olympia Washington
Ride
'21 Z H2, '14 R3R, '02 Daytona 955i
Well well, Alain came through because he’s amazing and disabled codes p0222 and p0638, the two codes that come up when you remove the secondary stepper and tps respectively. Tested and ridden today, no codes came up.

So, now, if one were so inclined one could unbolt all the secondary hardware, fill the shaft holes with appropriate material and have nice clean shots down the TB. No need to bore them to clean up air flow for the built motor guys.

Please PAY ATTENTION to the tables and rev limiter!!!

MAP:
https://www.r3owners.net/resources/my-tune-read-the-description.28/download?version=28


Throttle Bodies after being returned, he gained 3mm in diameter without too much issue.
5DDDBC27-CCFC-4B13-A5E2-4AA2BE271C2D.jpeg



The little port where you can see light coming through is normally sealed on the stock TBs. After cutting, you can now see it is no longer sealed. These ports I sealed with more JB Weld Marine, leaving a little blob outside so they're "mushroom" shaped plugs with little/no change of dislodging and going into the motor.
39025EE0-4321-467F-AB3E-EB10D6BE8104.jpeg


It turns out George at Maxbore adjusted the blades to seal so well I had to close the gap on the TPS calibration from 0.6 and 0.72 to 0.62 and 0.70 volts. If not, it allows too much air to pass and does a surging idle, 900-2000, 900-2000 cycle thing.
B78F7B80-76FF-4702-AD71-CC05E16C94DE.jpeg


Here you can see the before and after of blending the TBs into the mounting rubbers to the head:
4D3DF1CA-9475-477E-A28B-EFC59288A421.jpeg
4949299A-0B7E-4502-8044-E955E24EE6F6.jpeg


 
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Should anyone else modify their TBs do be warned you’ll need to play with ISCV values, 0.6 and 0.72 no longer work.

Currently working out what’s best for my setup, but, each bike will be different, you’ll need to reduce the 0.12 delta value by some amount depending on the system as a whole or it’ll stall while rolling if you pull the clutch or go to neutral.
 
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I have no understanding what Rob just posted. :(
Mike let me explain it to you in easy to understand English,
the thingymajig will not work with the old thingymajig, then stuff something in a shaft, blow the motor until you are red in the cheeks then have Rob check your work. Hope that clears up all the confusion
 
Mike let me explain it to you in easy to understand English,
the thingymajig will not work with the old thingymajig, then stuff something in a shaft, blow the motor until you are red in the cheeks then have Rob check your work. Hope that clears up all the confusion
Its probably because he added a whatsamacallit and a doomahickie :D
 
After I have done bored throttle bodies, if this is any help, take the linkage off the stepper motor and set the idle with the screw. Match the idle set speed in your tune with tuneboy/tune ecu and remember what is was like in the old days. Just warm the engine for maybe 40-60 seconds until it will idle. ALL GOOD. No electrical genius needed. NO fault codes, no hair pulling etc etc. Good luck.
 
and remember what is was like in the old days.
Nev - I can hardly remember what I had for breakfast. Oh wait -------------- Coffee.

But sounds to me just like the "fitting different carb's" syndrome. Especially when you've not actually rebuilt them and inferred (usually incorrectly) the previous owner had.
A tip for old Dellorto users - The Malossi transparent float bowls get porous and breathe as they age.
 
But sounds to me just like the "fitting different carb's" syndrome.
If it helps, remember a throttle body has absolutely nothing to do with fuelling. The ECU controls fuel via injectors. Throttle body is an AIR valve.
 
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