Bad Voltage Regulator ...OR?

A long read but a good one from a similar thread despite the title. Read Post#13 onwards
Waterproof DC12V to 24V Digital LED Panel Voltmeter Gauge Volt Meter

After my regulator died I was concerned about my stator as well:
Did your battery run down until the engine died?
Did you check the output voltage from the regulator rectifier (RR) with the engine running?
If it is your RR make sure you get a plug n play Shindengen series SH847 (32800-31J00 RECTIFIER ASSY) one as fitted to Suzuki Strom 1000 to replace heaps better than stock shunt version and I have had no problems since.

Yes the battery was drained
Output to the battery was all over the place, from 12.5 to 19v
I checked the RR voltage with it uninstalled

I also checked the wires going back to the stator while the bike was off and they are open

Can you disconnect the battery while its running and see if it stays running, like an old car?

Do you think this model will work "Amazon Link"
 
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Yes the battery was drained
Output to the battery was all over the place, from 12.5 to 19v
I checked the RR voltage with it uninstalled

I also checked the wires going back to the stator while the bike was off and they are open

Can you disconnect the battery while its running and see if it stays running, like an old car?

Do you think this model will work "Amazon Link"
It may do, but seems expensive anyway as the stock shunt mosfet type Shindengen FH012 is very reliable but does not have to be purchased at a silly price from Triumph.

Why get a shunt mosfet for nearly as much as the plug and play Shindengen Series version? The shunt type are harder on you stator as they require it to run at peak output. The Series type only requires the stator to output what is being drawn by all the operating circuits on the bike. This causes much less heat and potential stator failure which is an engine out $2000+ workshop repair.
 
Read the threads with the Master DEcosse's posts he is the guru but from Memory you should be getting very similar voltage output from each of the 3 phase wires if it is doing its job. If as you stated you have checked your stator and all circuits were open its OK. That only leaves your RR if your battery went flat and you have tried another battery and it does the same again. If you can re-charge your existing battery and it lasts for another 20-40 minutes it wasn't the battery - take a spare battery with you and you will still get home;):D.

Frankly it is a top upgrade anyway and goes a long way to protecting you from a potential nightmare if you are going to keep the bike for quite a while.
 
Yes the battery was drained
Output to the battery was all over the place, from 12.5 to 19v
If less than 'normal' can be several things - however if it is >15V then the R/R is DEFINITELY bad

I checked the RR voltage with it uninstalled
Not sure what you mean - how can you check the R/R Voltage with it not installed????

I also checked the wires going back to the stator while the bike was off and they are open
When you say "open" ......
What you need to do is measure resistance between ANY one of the three wires to engine ground - this should be infinite resistance (i.e. "open" circuit)
If you measure between any two wires, you should measure close to zero ohms (i.e. "short") - maybe something like 0.5 ohms but will vary by meter type
The important measurement here is the resistance (more correctly "isolation") to ground
If it passes the isolation test, then your stator is most likely good; if it fails (you measure short to ground) then it is toast.
There is really no need to measure voltage, the isolation test should suffice; if it passes or fails, there is really no need to test voltage;
however if you want to, you can measure AC volts (MUST be AC, NOT DC) between any two of the wires (with the R/R disconnected);
at any given rpm, you should read very close to the same between all three permutations of pairs of the three wires;
if there is any significant deviation between different pairs, the stator would be bad - however it would be extremely rare, HIGHLY unlikely that you would get a difference in one phase WITHOUT also having a failure of the isolation test.

Can you disconnect the battery while its running and see if it stays running, like an old car?
No.
 
Not sure what you mean - how can you check the R/R Voltage with it not installed????

It was disconnected and removed from the bike, I checked it on the rectifier itself

When you say "open" ......
What you need to do is measure resistance between ANY one of the three wires to engine ground - this should be infinite resistance (i.e. "open" circuit)
If you measure between any two wires, you should measure close to zero ohms (i.e. "short") - maybe something like 0.5 ohms but will vary by meter type
The important measurement here is the resistance (more correctly "isolation") to ground
If it passes the isolation test, then your stator is most likely good; if it fails (you measure short to ground) then it is toast.
There is really no need to measure voltage, the isolation test should suffice; if it passes or fails, there is really no need to test voltage;
however if you want to, you can measure AC volts (MUST be AC, NOT DC) between any two of the wires (with the R/R disconnected);
at any given rpm, you should read very close to the same between all three permutations of pairs of the three wires;
if there is any significant deviation between different pairs, the stator would be bad - however it would be extremely rare, HIGHLY unlikely that you would get a difference in one phase WITHOUT also having a failure of the isolation test.

When I test one of the 3 wires going to the stator, with the other meter lead to the battery ground my meter reads "OL"
When I test between the 3 wires going to the stator its says "000"

On the rectifier I get,
OL OL OL
444 444 444
I switch the meter leads and get,
97 97 97
OL OL OL

I hope that makes sense :)
 
Wouldn't worry too much about the readings from the R/R - it's more difficult to measure the MOSFET ones like that
However if you were getting output voltage above 15V at ANY time* then your R/R is definitely bad

*This was measured with it still connected to battery, right?
 
Installed mine here.
IMG_6003.JPG
IMG_6004.JPG
 
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