Do I need a clutch?

Is it correct that I should be able to pull the cable sheath back (hard) and measure 2-3mm there?

Not a hard pull as there should not be any tension until the free play is gone.

Also your bike was built prior to fully updated engines, although it could have some of the updated parts as they hit the assembly line. If you take the clutch cover off take a picture of the cam chain guide exhaust side and we can at least see if it has the newer guide in it.
 
If you go in and check the clutch, I'd contact Carpenter Racing and get the heavier clutch springs. That fixed my clutch slip.
 
Is it worthwhile to just replace the fibers while I'm in there? Steels? Sorry, I'm full of dumb questions today, haha
 
NO! Gently pull the cable sheath. The easiest way to check is make sure you have plenty of slack regardless of how it shifts and when you get it in fourth or fifth hammer the gas and see if it still slips. Two problems of you continue to ride with too little slack: You will burn out the lifter shaft and/or you will burn out your clutch plates. With only 7k miles on it the shifting will be a bit stiff and will get easier as the miles go on.

Ok, I can also redo that adjustment. When you say stiff, is it normal for it to not want to go into gear? Going into second with more slack on the cable really does feel like I haven't pulled the clutch in- it grinds and I can't get it to clunk into gear until I let the revs wind down. That's what prompted me to start wonderinrg whether my cable was out of adjustment. It's not nearly so bad on the other shifts, though.
 
Is it worthwhile to just replace the fibers while I'm in there? Steels? Sorry, I'm full of dumb questions today, haha
My guess is that the clutch isn't bad yet, and the springs will do the trick.
I had just the heavier springs added when I did the 265 hp kit. It hasn't slipped again since.
 
when I got my R3 I was not happy with clutch at all ..the bike had been sat for a while and I was not familiar with it

my advice lube / adjust the cable then get some serous millage on the clutch/gearbox it will loosen up if been sat for a while and also you will re familiarise yourself with the R3 cog swapper which does take some getting used to as it is a bit shall we say err agricultural a best
 
Could also be a worn lifter shaft especially if your free play seems right but she is hard to get in gear and shifting is noisy. As for changing the fibers and steels plus check the lifter shaft and lifter piece. (Good time to ensure you have the new style lifter piece). I'd wait until you open it and check them out. Changing the clutch is a couple hours if you've done it a few times 4 hours if it's your first time.
 
It is normal for a low mileage Rocket to be reluctant to go into first from a stop. Sometimes it feels like it has gone into gear but can jump out as you let the clutch out. I don't even think about it now with over 100,000 km on it but initially it takes a firm push to get in gear and the technique is to disengage the clutch as you are pressing firmly on the shifter so that the gears are rolling and will fall into place.
 
TO is right but improper adjustment or junk oil can make the transmission shift wierd/hard. I've seen a number of guys on this site notice a difference when running Mobile 1 oil 4rt 15w50 which is what was specified for the 08. I'm not trying to sell them: I have high opinions of Red Line, Motul 300V, and AMSoil 20w50. I definitely go with the 50 weight as I do not ride in Siberia like Paul does.
 
Hmm, maybe I'll change the oil this weekend. I've not had any trouble getting into first, it's just the upward shift between first and second that has like a 50/50 chance of grinding and not going in. If I get it into second, the other shifts up and back down aren't bad.
 
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