DEcosse
If it's no Scottish it's CRAP!
I just discovered this odd (and as far as I can find undocumented) wiring change that applies to 08+ Std/Classic model with the 'new' style key-switch connectors:
I had supplied a Key-Less system to @ozrider (Les) and while it was initially turning on, he was unable to turn it off! Once latched on, setting the Kill Switch failed to drop the latch. Have to say that Les was absolutely brilliant to work with - it's never easy to vicariously diagnose something from 8000 miles away, but he painstakingly stepped through the protracted process of directions to identify the source of the issue.
By disconnecting various connectors and fuses and monitoring the result, I was able to deduce that somehow the Blue/Yellow and Green wires between key-switch connector and Fuse Panel HAD to be be shorted together somehow; this was confirmed by disconnecting the key-switch connector and pulling fuses 5, 8 & 9 and measuring dead short between the Green (pin 5) and Blue/Yellow (pin 4) at the key-switch connector; the next challenge was to find where.
That is where Les stepped up and actually got down to taking a close look at things and found the source of the issue.
Here is the schematic, reduced just to the primary power distribution:
Power comes into the key-switch connector on pin 1 (from Fuse #2) and is switched to Pin 4 (Blue/Yellow) - headlight circuit - and to pin 5, (Green) the ignition circuit - important to note that 4 & 5 are independent and ONLY connected together (with pin 1) when the switch is ON.
But once established that the circuits were shorted together this is what Les found:
Here is the underside of the Fuse Panel
and specifically this is the input to Fuse 9 (actually ganged to Fuse 8 Terminal)
The Green wire that is connected to Fuse 9, is also connected in the main harness to the Green Wire that goes to Fuse 5.
So this is what the wiring for the 08 actually looks like
The big question is WHY Triumph decided to do this: I can only think that they recognized and had been trying to do something in regard to the key-switch failures - however this would do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING in that regard - all that it does is split the current going to the Headlight circuit across two poles of the key-switch - however the part that fails is the INPUT wire (the White one) that supplies the same amount of current regardless. So in my opinion this mod is worthless, of zero benefit, but to me, does suggest an awareness by Triumph of the key-switch failures, while not acknowledging it!
I'd also like to show how the new key-switch connector was employed
They obviously were re-using the previous stock and simply spliced the connectors with in-line butt splices
(at least they are a decent splice device, with heat-shrink/glue sleeves.
I don't know if this continued through the end of the std/classic model (2009) or only while stock was being used up.
As far as the 'extra' green wire goes, it is of no benefit but not really doing any harm either.
If using a std switch it will not even be noticed by anyone and it only became apparent in the way my ignition latch system works - no change is necessary when using the std key!! I just wanted to document it for anyone with a std in the 08/09 range
(for the key-less system we simply cut that green wire off the Fuse 9 connection and all was good)
I had supplied a Key-Less system to @ozrider (Les) and while it was initially turning on, he was unable to turn it off! Once latched on, setting the Kill Switch failed to drop the latch. Have to say that Les was absolutely brilliant to work with - it's never easy to vicariously diagnose something from 8000 miles away, but he painstakingly stepped through the protracted process of directions to identify the source of the issue.
By disconnecting various connectors and fuses and monitoring the result, I was able to deduce that somehow the Blue/Yellow and Green wires between key-switch connector and Fuse Panel HAD to be be shorted together somehow; this was confirmed by disconnecting the key-switch connector and pulling fuses 5, 8 & 9 and measuring dead short between the Green (pin 5) and Blue/Yellow (pin 4) at the key-switch connector; the next challenge was to find where.
That is where Les stepped up and actually got down to taking a close look at things and found the source of the issue.
Here is the schematic, reduced just to the primary power distribution:
Power comes into the key-switch connector on pin 1 (from Fuse #2) and is switched to Pin 4 (Blue/Yellow) - headlight circuit - and to pin 5, (Green) the ignition circuit - important to note that 4 & 5 are independent and ONLY connected together (with pin 1) when the switch is ON.
But once established that the circuits were shorted together this is what Les found:
Here is the underside of the Fuse Panel
and specifically this is the input to Fuse 9 (actually ganged to Fuse 8 Terminal)
The Green wire that is connected to Fuse 9, is also connected in the main harness to the Green Wire that goes to Fuse 5.
So this is what the wiring for the 08 actually looks like
The big question is WHY Triumph decided to do this: I can only think that they recognized and had been trying to do something in regard to the key-switch failures - however this would do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING in that regard - all that it does is split the current going to the Headlight circuit across two poles of the key-switch - however the part that fails is the INPUT wire (the White one) that supplies the same amount of current regardless. So in my opinion this mod is worthless, of zero benefit, but to me, does suggest an awareness by Triumph of the key-switch failures, while not acknowledging it!
I'd also like to show how the new key-switch connector was employed
They obviously were re-using the previous stock and simply spliced the connectors with in-line butt splices
(at least they are a decent splice device, with heat-shrink/glue sleeves.
I don't know if this continued through the end of the std/classic model (2009) or only while stock was being used up.
As far as the 'extra' green wire goes, it is of no benefit but not really doing any harm either.
If using a std switch it will not even be noticed by anyone and it only became apparent in the way my ignition latch system works - no change is necessary when using the std key!! I just wanted to document it for anyone with a std in the 08/09 range
(for the key-less system we simply cut that green wire off the Fuse 9 connection and all was good)
