Running lights

Tell your guy to go and blow a donkey

Any reputable shop charges $80-$110 per hour....... 7 1/2 hours MY A$$
That's muther Phuker lies more than Hillary n obammy combined. He took your $$$$$ cauz he knew he was in over his head.... Good job giving him the bail money. It's called cutting your loss's - no shame in that, lesson learned - dealerships are bad - sometimes small indie shops are worse. Take a breath, start over. You'll be fine

Feels to me like your being strung a line there. May I suggest instead of going to bike guys or dealers, try a general automotive electrician? The actual system/principals are basically the same be it car or bike and generally I found them to be good blokes to deal with. It would help greatly if you tool the service manual and wiring diagram to them, sometimes they'll even let you strip the bike in the shop to save money also.

Wires usually will only melt due to being shorted to earth or a device drawing too much current fuses should protect this either way. Recently I tore off the rear indicators and number plate and then road for an hour with the wires dragging behind on the wheel, only popped the fuse, and if engine heat is going to melt wiring, there's a lot of other plastic under there that would melt first.



@GPMAZ I remember Joe Lucas "Prince of Darkness"... still fight him occasionally on my old Bonnie

They said they work on diagonoseing to the problem to say it's the ignition switch because they don't know the bike, still seems like a long time lol but thank god he only charged me for two hours.
I hope when I bring it to Triumph dealer they don't spend two hours to diagonose the problem and say I need a new switch I'm going to feel bad that I took it out of the shop because I thought they where wrong.
It just seems crazy that I need a new switch just because the running lights and the licence plate doesn't work, if what he says when he moved the ignition switch and the running lights and the licence plate light came on, why can't he just fix the connection?
He says it in side and can't be fixed and that I need a new egnition, is it possible that he's right?

This guy is a car mechanic as well he does bikes but more sport bikes I was told he's good with bike and his hourly rate was less then the dealers .so I brought it to him when my tire bottom out and wrecked my wire harness under my fender, so not really sure if my lights didn't work before or after his work just felt he was guessing because he really doesn't know the bike.
Wow what happen to that Rocket , now that would be sad

DEcosse said:

It's not impossible but would be VERY unusual to have a failure on the running light ciruit on the key-switch, especially if the headlights are working normally...

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I'm not back-tracking here - I still think it is quite unlikely that there is a problem in the key-switch affecting ONLY the Park/Running Lights; however I will add that is is not impossible.
And if you can replicate the action your mechanic claims - moving the key affects the operation - then fair enough
But please also do these tests:

DEcosse said:

..Here's something you can check to see if it is the whole running light circuit (front and rear) or just the rear one (where you clearly already had problems):
Pull Fuse #9 (will turn off the main headlights) and see if the small running light bulbs are on; if they are then it is just a rear light wiring issue

You should also check Fuses #'s 8 & 10

And finally turn key all the way to the 'park' position (fully anti-clockwise past the lock position) - does either front or rear come on?

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Now here's the deal:
There are actually TWO different (and completely isolated) poles in the key-switch which affect the running lights operation
1. The first pole connects power in through the White wire and out through the brown wire - this output from the Brown Wire will affect the Headlights, the ability for starter to operate, the background illumination on the instruments and also the running lights
2. The second pole connect the Blue Wire to the Red wire - the output from the Red wire indeed feeds the Running (front & rear) & plate lights.

So the important questions are -
Are your headlight s being affected by any manipulation of the switch or is it ONLY the running lights?
Is it ONLY the rear (Running & plate) that is being affected by manipulation of the switch - or are front and rear being affected simultaneously (again, you may need to pull fuse 9 to see what the front running lights are doing)

Here's the good news:
IF (and only IF) it does indeed turn out that the Second Pole IS the only problem (i.e. ONLY your running lights both front & rear) are being affected by manipulation of the switch, then the fix is fairly simple & almost free:

On the Key-Switch side of the connector, cut the Red Wire and the Blue wire 2-3 inches from the connector plug; then join them together (use a barrel crimp splice or solder and insulate - do not simply twist them together and tape!).

^That will bypass that second pole and your running lights will still only come on when the Key is turned on.
What will no longer work is that they will not operate when you turn the key all the way anti-clock-wise to the Park Position (but do you ever use that anyway? Unlikely)

scot in exile said:

Tell your guy to go and blow a donkey

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Oi! - You leave poor donkeys alone!

I would get my bike out of this guys hands so fast it probably rip them off.

I would get my bike home, see what he has destroyed, and fix it. There can't be that much damage under your mud guard to the wiring harness that would cause a switch issue. I could be wrong however but even then do this instead: Talk to Decosse about his keyless ignition system. It takes the switch out of the equation all together.

The last time you had a problem a couple of years ago I rebuilt your ignition switch and then installed the headlight relay bypass.I think I charged you a couple of beers? Ok it was more than a couple . Why don't you call me?

Ok Paul. Just seemed you have been vary busy and you know me I'm quiet and didn't want to bother you.