Waterproof DC12V to 24V Digital LED Panel Voltmeter Gauge Volt Meter

I did the other tests on the stator today:
1. Do your stator isolation test again when it is hot - just in case something is breaking down and you are not seeing immediately.

Did this after radiator fan came on and R/R had warmed up before disconnecting it. Strangely the 1st Chinese R/R I used today did not seem to get as hot as the identical 2nd extra brand new spare one I tried a couple of days ago.
Result: Still was completely OPEN (infinite resistance) on all three plug terminals when tested with digital multimeter reading 'O/L'.



2. Test the voltage; (R/R not connected). Set your meter to AC V (same as setting for what comes out of your wall socket!) and disconnect from R/R and start bike - measure between the three combinations of 2 pins
i.e. 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. (does not matter which you call 1, 2, 3)


Result: At idle, all three around 26volts constantly varying +/- 1-2volts;
At 2250 rpms, all three around 56 volts constantly varying +/- 1-2volts;


I'll start trying to find a series SH847 Series R/R
Home

SH847 SERIES R/R KITS ARE NOW AVAILABLE




This is the newest R/R from Shindengen, the same people who build the FH020AA and SH775 so you know the quality is there. These are 50 amp peak models that have been tested on the Rotax motored Buell and Aprilia models and have been working great. They have been running these on the 600 Ducati with no issues. These are scarce but I have a pretty good line on them now. They go fast. You can get the auto reset circuit breaker or maxifuse. Again remember that you can make these harnesses any length, check the highlighted areas above for add on wire lengths for battery and stator. Battery wires are 36" and stator wires are 12".

I am only selling SH847 only as a Super kit as this R/R is very expensive and I don't want any issues due to old or bad charging system wiring. I want to make sure this setup is rock solid in every way. The dimensions of the SH847 are as follows. 1.5" thick, W 4.75" x L 4.75" Bolt holes center to center 4.0" Bolt holes are 2" from the non-connector side end.
Remember that stator leads can go any which way there is no polarity.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS ONLY AVAILABLE NOW.

THE NEW SH847 SUPER KITS ARE $199.95
plus $9.50 shipping and insurance.
Circuit protection


Item total:$199.95
Shipping and handling Shipping and handling: (to )Australia
$60.00
Estimate shipping and tax
Cancel

Select ship-to country (optional)
Cancel

Total:$259.95 USD
 
Last edited:
I did the other tests on the stator today:
1. Do your stator isolation test again when it is hot - just in case something is breaking down and you are not seeing immediately.

Did this after radiator fan came on and R/R had warmed up before disconnecting it. Strangely the 1st Chinese R/R I used today did not seem to get as hot as the identical 2nd extra brand new spare one I tried a couple of days ago.
Result: Still was completely OPEN (infinite resistance) on all three plug terminals when tested with digital multimeter reading 'O/L'.



2. Test the voltage; (R/R not connected). Set your meter to AC V (same as setting for what comes out of your wall socket!) and disconnect from R/R and start bike - measure between the three combinations of 2 pins
i.e. 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. (does not matter which you call 1, 2, 3)


Result: At idle, all three around 26volts constantly varying +/- 1-2volts;
At 2250 rpms, all three around 56 volts constantly varying +/- 1-2volts;


I'll start trying to find a series SH847 Series R/R
Home

SH847 SERIES R/R KITS ARE NOW AVAILABLE




This is the newest R/R from Shindengen, the same people who build the FH020AA and SH775 so you know the quality is there. These are 50 amp peak models that have been tested on the Rotax motored Buell and Aprilia models and have been working great. They have been running these on the 600 Ducati with no issues. These are scarce but I have a pretty good line on them now. They go fast. You can get the auto reset circuit breaker or maxifuse. Again remember that you can make these harnesses any length, check the highlighted areas above for add on wire lengths for battery and stator. Battery wires are 36" and stator wires are 12".

I am only selling SH847 only as a Super kit as this R/R is very expensive and I don't want any issues due to old or bad charging system wiring. I want to make sure this setup is rock solid in every way. The dimensions of the SH847 are as follows. 1.5" thick, W 4.75" x L 4.75" Bolt holes center to center 4.0" Bolt holes are 2" from the non-connector side end.
Remember that stator leads can go any which way there is no polarity.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS ONLY AVAILABLE NOW.

THE NEW SH847 SUPER KITS ARE $199.95
plus $9.50 shipping and insurance.
Circuit protection


Item total:$199.95
Shipping and handling Shipping and handling: (to )Australia
$60.00
Estimate shipping and tax
Cancel

Select ship-to country (optional)
Cancel

Total:$259.95 USD
I got mine from Andy at NCY Motorsports.
andy@ncyyamaha.com


IMG_4206.JPG
 
I did the other tests on the stator today:
1. Do your stator isolation test again when it is hot - just in case something is breaking down and you are not seeing immediately.

Result: Still was completely OPEN (infinite resistance) on all three plug terminals when tested with digital multimeter reading 'O/L'.

2. Test the voltage; (R/R not connected). Set your meter to AC V (same as setting for what comes out of your wall socket!) and disconnect from R/R and start bike - measure between the three combinations of 2 pins
i.e. 1-2, 2-3, 3-1. (does not matter which you call 1, 2, 3)


Result: At idle, all three around 26volts constantly varying +/- 1-2volts;
At 2250 rpms, all three around 56 volts constantly varying +/- 1-2volts;

Great news - Your stator is perfect.

You do not need an install kit for the SH847 - just use OEM connectors, plug n play.
Hopefully you did not cut yours off to adapt your cheapy R/R - but maybe you got one of the plug n play type.
I think the problem with those Chinese modules is that they LOOK the same (heatsink connectors etc) but what is inside is NOT what you get on the OEM Triumph/Yamaha FH012 from Shindengen.

If you want genuine Shindengen, this OZ breaker has couple of OEM Yamaha at $165 (Au$) and has a 'make offer' bid - Yamaha R1 07-08 REGULATOR/RECTIFIER, REMOVED FROM GOOD RUNNING BIKE

You just have to decide whether you want to return to stock set-up or make the additional investment in a Series Type SH847.
 
Last edited:
Great news - Your stator is perfect.

You do not need an install kit for the SH847 - just use OEM connectors, plug n play.
Hopefully you did not cut yours off to adapt your cheapy R/R - but maybe you got one of the plug n play type.
I think the problem with those Chinese modules is that they LOOK the same (heatsink connectors etc) but what is inside is NOT what you get on the OEM Triumph/Yamaha FH012 from Shindengen.

If you want genuine Shindengen, this OZ breaker has couple of OEM Yamaha at $165 (Au$) and has a 'make offer' bid - Yamaha R1 07-08 REGULATOR/RECTIFIER, REMOVED FROM GOOD RUNNING BIKE

You just have to decide whether you want to return to stock set-up or make the additional investment in a Series Type SH847.

Thank you for all your advice @DEcosse , it has given me both great dread and relief!
I will definitely go the series R/R route. Is the Yamaha R1 link for a SH847 or a OEM Triumph/Yamaha FH012 equivalent? I guess it is the FH012.

Thanks @Mittzy for the heads up I checked out their website:
Shop online at NCY-Motorsports

but couldn't see that SH847 model so will email them. andy@ncyyamaha.com for availability and a price.
 
Yes, that link I gave was just for used FH012 for something 'in Country' that would get you going.

.... I checked out their website:
Shop online at NCY-Motorsports

but couldn't see that SH847 model ....
You want to use the Suzuki Part # which is 32800-31J00
There are other dealers that are a bit cheaper than what Mittzy paid for the actual item - but it all depends on shipping too, when you add that into the mix
 
Arrived and fitted the series SH847 AA today - as advised earlier much bigger than stock and no way I could use the same position or mounts. In the end I wrapped and fixed some felt backed rubber around the rear frame tube and zip tied it in place behind the side cover with the much taller fins faced in where they will hopefully get some air coming past the prop shaft drive.

Will this suffice or do I risk cooking the other electrics? Where did others mount theirs?
Happy to say that voltage measured at my accesory plug is a happy 14.3 volts with the engine running and headlights on etc. Voltage with engine off 13 volts.

'
 
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