happyhenry
.060 Over
looking for advice on removing the motor,got a blown 5 th gear. can the motor be dropped out the frame from the bottom.tips,sugestions,horror stories all would be greatly appreiciated
any advice on pulling the motor
- Thread starter happyhenry
- Start date
happyhenry
.060 Over
not sure at this point what exactly happened,seems like the dog rings are munched. a common problem on early bikes. mine was purchased in july of 2004. I think my update kit has some 5 gear parts. bikes got 70000 miles on it. at times it would get this kind of false neutral between 4 and5th gear if under heavy acceleration,pull the clutch in and it always went into gear,one day it would not go into5th and 4th sounded like a bag of marbles,limped it home in 3rd gear ,seems screwed
El Bruto
.060 Over
- Joined
- Oct 6, 2015
- Messages
- 126
- Ride
- Rocket 3 2005/6 modifed!!!!
just had my motor in and out 3 times..
you will need the clutch removal tool (cheap one on eBay in stainless steel) and you will need the alternator puller tool.. that is a must.
you should also order the special sealant )1202B i think) to put the crank case back together, order these now so you are not waiting on them.
Advise.. take it easy, take your time.. remove all panels and tank, foot peg bars etc, swing all electrics back over seat area, remove rear wheel and swing arm, starter motor, inlets, exhaust.. I removed oil tank as well.
DONT FORGET TO REMOVE OIL PRESSURE Switch or you will break it !!
I left front wheel on, some remove it..
easiest way I found if you are struggling for equipment,, lift the rear frame up as high as possible, jack under engine.. remove the 4 rear fixing bolts and allow rear of engine to drop down while lowering jack.. then remove front bolts.
Check the manual for all the bolt removal sequences, sump, bottom oil ladder and especially when splitting the crank case. They are a matched pair and cannot be replaced or repaired!
I did the 2nd gear mod so had most of gearbox out... while you are doing this I STRONGLY suggest you remove the bolt in the end of the gear selector shaft and replace it with plenty of Loctite. this is a known fault, and the initial reason I had to strip mine.
There are several parts you really should change while doing this.. 2nd gear, output shaft bearings, inner and outer, cam chain guides and detent roller on gear selector.
You will need access to a press to do the output shaft bearings.
When re-assembling ensure everything is spotless, including the 2 metal sieves in the sump.. mine were clean, but somehow after running engine for a short while they became blocked.. so check oil flow in tank when you have put it back together, mine just emptied into the sump and didn't gcome back up as the oil is scavenged through the metal sieves.. just my experience..
Above all Listen to the real Guru's on here.. their experience is VAST !!!
you will need the clutch removal tool (cheap one on eBay in stainless steel) and you will need the alternator puller tool.. that is a must.
you should also order the special sealant )1202B i think) to put the crank case back together, order these now so you are not waiting on them.
Advise.. take it easy, take your time.. remove all panels and tank, foot peg bars etc, swing all electrics back over seat area, remove rear wheel and swing arm, starter motor, inlets, exhaust.. I removed oil tank as well.
DONT FORGET TO REMOVE OIL PRESSURE Switch or you will break it !!
I left front wheel on, some remove it..
easiest way I found if you are struggling for equipment,, lift the rear frame up as high as possible, jack under engine.. remove the 4 rear fixing bolts and allow rear of engine to drop down while lowering jack.. then remove front bolts.
Check the manual for all the bolt removal sequences, sump, bottom oil ladder and especially when splitting the crank case. They are a matched pair and cannot be replaced or repaired!
I did the 2nd gear mod so had most of gearbox out... while you are doing this I STRONGLY suggest you remove the bolt in the end of the gear selector shaft and replace it with plenty of Loctite. this is a known fault, and the initial reason I had to strip mine.
There are several parts you really should change while doing this.. 2nd gear, output shaft bearings, inner and outer, cam chain guides and detent roller on gear selector.
You will need access to a press to do the output shaft bearings.
When re-assembling ensure everything is spotless, including the 2 metal sieves in the sump.. mine were clean, but somehow after running engine for a short while they became blocked.. so check oil flow in tank when you have put it back together, mine just emptied into the sump and didn't gcome back up as the oil is scavenged through the metal sieves.. just my experience..
Above all Listen to the real Guru's on here.. their experience is VAST !!!
BigNorm
Boobie Inspector
I haven't done it but I read someone's thread where they put the front wheel in a chock, Lifted the bike under the motor with a bike jack, removed the back tire and balanced the rear on a board between two jack stands, loosened the motor bolts and dropped the bike jack. When they put it back together they attached a cherry picker on the rear end and dropped it down onto the motor on the bike lift.
happyhenry
.060 Over
great info ,thanks to all.this is the info that cant be found in a manual.although thanks IDK for the manual I don't think it can be done without one.thanks again to all, this is a great site
R3Tex
Living Legend
Hook up with @warp9.9 ...pretty sure I remember him showing me pictures when we were in Arkansas of some jury rigged device involving ratchet straps and duct tape that facilitated removal of the engine from the bottom. Oh...there may also have been one of those hand crank winch things that usually come on boat trailers I can't clearly remember...too much liquid corn.
warp9.9
Pocałuj mnie w dupę
When I pulled my engine I did it in the basement for warmth and the fact that I could hang a 1 ton chain fall from the 12 inch steel I beam I installed when I built the bugger.
Pretty much just followed the Manual except for minor thing like the Super Charger kit. The good thing is if your just doing trans work and have the updated cam chain guides your can do the whole transmission without losing engine timing. The pulling could be done in a garage from the rafters with a come along as it is not heavy work. You can pull it with a engine hoist also either by picking the whole frame off or just lifting the back. It really depends on how much room you working with. Myself the wifey only let me have so much of her basement
So I worked within them parameters Fortunately the I beam made it so I could just roll the frame up against the wall and lay a nice cheap rug down to kneel on while I did the transmission.
When splitting the case remember this bolt as it hide well under the scavenger pump.
When I was done with the rug I tossed it
Pretty much just followed the Manual except for minor thing like the Super Charger kit. The good thing is if your just doing trans work and have the updated cam chain guides your can do the whole transmission without losing engine timing. The pulling could be done in a garage from the rafters with a come along as it is not heavy work. You can pull it with a engine hoist also either by picking the whole frame off or just lifting the back. It really depends on how much room you working with. Myself the wifey only let me have so much of her basement
So I worked within them parameters Fortunately the I beam made it so I could just roll the frame up against the wall and lay a nice cheap rug down to kneel on while I did the transmission.When splitting the case remember this bolt as it hide well under the scavenger pump.
When I was done with the rug I tossed it
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