Broken Detent Spring

Maybe I have a 'judder' problem. Symptoms sound familiar.. i'd assumed it was the rivets in the clutch basket. Perhaps not :rolleyes:
 
I'm still a little confused about which way the anti-judder spring is installed...If Warp could come back and look at the photos...I know it is installed after the washer; but which part of the washer goes toward the friction plate...the smaller diameter or the larger diameter? According to the wear marks on the basket and plate, the larger diameter goes toward the plates.
Which photo below is correct?
Last photo for location of judder spring and washer(washer under judder spring)
 

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I'm still a little confused about which way the anti-judder spring is installed...If Warp could come back and look at the photos...I know it is installed after the washer; but which part of the washer goes toward the friction plate...the smaller diameter or the larger diameter? According to the wear marks on the basket and plate, the larger diameter goes toward the plates.
Which photo below is correct?
Last photo for location of judder spring and washer(washer under judder spring)
sorry for the delay busy day in prison :D
The first photo is the correct orientation !!!!!
At least thats how the 2011 R3T complete clutch I bought with 7500 miles on it was and still is I just took the outer Basket and had a MTC billet basket installed on it.Never took the anti judder spring and seat along with the fibers and steels off the internal hub!
 
Warp, thanks again, I feel a little more at ease now...still waiting for new parts...will post photos
 
Be carefull on the torqe specifications of the spring bolts they are soft as ****ski, over torque will result in taking it back off to drill and tap the bolt out. I went with longer bolts after my hub grenaded. Its funny how the OEM bolts just reach the filet raius of the spring towers and do not even thread into the strong part of the hub.
 
Do not wind the return spring to much when putting the cover back on or it will tighten to much on the lifter shaft when you acuate it and make the lifter shaft fracture after a while.
An even better solution is to use an external spring instead - which is warp9.9's original idea. It makes life much easier and works better.

When putting the new detent spring on do not use long nose pliers to position it. Use a thin bladed screwdriver to slide it into place. The reason I say this is that I believe that the edges of the pliers will slightly nick the edge of the spring - creating a weak point which will eventually fracture. Using a smooth screwdriver shaft will not cause this problem. Of course, I could be wrong, but it can't hurt.
 
Gear popping

After wasting 2 hours at a dealer and riding toward home (canceled Quebec City!!) I'm in Albany NY reading your detention spring solution. The dealer said 40 hours to open it all up! So is gear popping when it's the spring a random event? I've had it hit neutral when I shift to 2nd, hit neutral when I then shifted again, and hit neutral again (should be in 4th but still in neutral) and engaged only in 5th. Drove carefully 150 miles and last run off the highway it hit every gear! I'm on vacation and need to be back in 9 days (900) miles: should I limp back or order spring detention parts and fix it here? Thanks!! Bruce
 
New Parts Installed

I completed the detent spring replacement and other upgraded parts and thought I’d post the results.
This , hopefully will bring some questions and answers in the event others with minimal experience like myself would like to tackle this job if it happens to them.
One thing of interest was when I went to tighten up the 22mm nut for the inner clutch basket I noticed the collar on the new nut (which is hit with a punch to lock it in place) was overhanging the input shaft by about 1/32 inch. I hadn’t noticed this when I removed the original nut although I did see that it was very close to the end of the input shaft. Normally this would not be an issue but the spring washer on the lifter piece is supposed to rest against the flat surface of the input shaft…now, the collar of the new nut is overhanging the input shaft. The collar has a fairly sharp edge and I believe the spring washer will be damaged as the clutch is engaged and disengaged. Further inspection showed that the new 22mm nut had a longer collar. (see photos). To make this work as intended I removed the new nut and ground enough of the collar to match the size of the original.
The upgraded lifter shaft shank, although the same length, is also a little different than original. I found that when I used the thrust washer and spring from original I had no” in and out” play when the lifter piece is placed in the input shaft and pressure plate torqued. The manual states the lifter piece should move in and out and rotate around the bearing. For the above to happen I did not install the thrust washer as the extended shank seemed to take the place of the thrust washer.
Also, there are 3 different friction plates; the first, last and the 8 in between(see photos). The first one in the photo is the one with a larger inside diameter to accommodate the anti-judder spring and washer. the second one of 8 are the ones in the middle of the pack and the last one rest against the pressure plate. The one against the pressure plate has 60 friction pads while the ones in the middle of the pack have 50 friction pads...they look very similar.
After all was installed and clutch adjusted the road test was a success.
 

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