9Ball
Supercharged
Just a heads up out there.
Last month on a small group ride, someone remarked that it looked like I was riding the brake. The brake light was staying on continuously. A quick check showed it was the rear brake pressure switch that was the problem.
When the bike is cold, the switch works normally. After a few miles, it would heat up and keep the brake light actuated. Another quality Triumph part.
Here's the old part and the new part numbers on the packing list.
I ordered the new pressure switch from Bikebandit (stamped with the date 03/09) and just replaced it yesterday. It took 2 weeks from time of ordering until it came in the mail. I thought it was a 5 minute job, but oh no!! You have to drain the rear brake reservoir, disconnect the hard brake line from the MC to the switch junction, then remove at least 4 of the footrest bolts so that the foot peg mounting arm swings down to expose the hidden bolt (socket head cap screw) behind the rear foot peg mounting bar flange. There's a shield between the switch junction and the cat box area that also needs removal (and this is a Torx bolt...weird).
If you order the new switch, also order new crush washers (2) for the pressure switch. I re-used the brake line crush washers, but you may want to replace these too so you don't have to worry about any leaks. My old crush washers were just replaced last year when I installed the classic footboard kit. The switch itself is a 22 mm hex, so if you plan on torquing it to 15 N-m on re-install, then make sure you have this 22 mm socket in your tool kit.
The old switch was stamped with 23/06 date if this helps to identify the time frame of a potentially bad batch of switches.
I use speedbleeders, so replacing the brake fluid and bleeding the brakes is a simple task. A hose connected to the bleeder will allow a vacuum pump (or suction using your mouth) to get the brake fluid into the lines and allow bleeding the remaining air bubbles from the system.
All in all a PITA...and $37 for the parts not counting the brake fluid or speedbleeders....but I guess riding with a permanently lit rear brake is only asking for trouble.
Hope this helps somebody avoid an accident.
Last month on a small group ride, someone remarked that it looked like I was riding the brake. The brake light was staying on continuously. A quick check showed it was the rear brake pressure switch that was the problem.
When the bike is cold, the switch works normally. After a few miles, it would heat up and keep the brake light actuated. Another quality Triumph part.
Here's the old part and the new part numbers on the packing list.
I ordered the new pressure switch from Bikebandit (stamped with the date 03/09) and just replaced it yesterday. It took 2 weeks from time of ordering until it came in the mail. I thought it was a 5 minute job, but oh no!! You have to drain the rear brake reservoir, disconnect the hard brake line from the MC to the switch junction, then remove at least 4 of the footrest bolts so that the foot peg mounting arm swings down to expose the hidden bolt (socket head cap screw) behind the rear foot peg mounting bar flange. There's a shield between the switch junction and the cat box area that also needs removal (and this is a Torx bolt...weird).
If you order the new switch, also order new crush washers (2) for the pressure switch. I re-used the brake line crush washers, but you may want to replace these too so you don't have to worry about any leaks. My old crush washers were just replaced last year when I installed the classic footboard kit. The switch itself is a 22 mm hex, so if you plan on torquing it to 15 N-m on re-install, then make sure you have this 22 mm socket in your tool kit.
The old switch was stamped with 23/06 date if this helps to identify the time frame of a potentially bad batch of switches.
I use speedbleeders, so replacing the brake fluid and bleeding the brakes is a simple task. A hose connected to the bleeder will allow a vacuum pump (or suction using your mouth) to get the brake fluid into the lines and allow bleeding the remaining air bubbles from the system.
All in all a PITA...and $37 for the parts not counting the brake fluid or speedbleeders....but I guess riding with a permanently lit rear brake is only asking for trouble.
Hope this helps somebody avoid an accident.
