Valve Clearance Check.

[sonny]

Coming up on 10,000 miles real quick. Checked similar threads and just kind of wondering if Valve Clearance Check is necessary at 10,000 miles or not. Some folks mentioned that triumph changed from
10,000 miles to 20,000 for this procedure. Any imput would be greatly appreciated.

 

[BillB]

Coming up on 10,000 miles real quick. Checked similar threads and just kind of wondering if Valve Clearance Check is necessary at 10,000 miles or not. Some folks mentioned that triumph changed from
10,000 miles to 20,000 for this procedure. Any imput would be greatly appreciated.

I checked mine at 10K because it was under warranty and that is what the maintenance schedule in my service manual called for. I would get the manual for your bike and check. You will need one to do the adjustment check anyway. No point in hosing up your warranty.

Budget a whole day for it. There is a lot of stuff under the tank that has to be dealt with before the valve cover comes off. If you don't have a set of 'ball end' long shank allen keys in the tool box, go buy a set before you start.

 

[Idaho Red Rocket 3]

Going to check mine this winter. Thanks for the good advice on the ball ends.

 

[Fingers]

Dealers now say check valve clearance at 20,000 miles.

 

[sleeves]

Dealers now say check valve clearance at 20,000 miles.

I had a freind who checked his at 100,000kms (60,000 miles) were all still in spec. He adjusted one from memory just because it was little out and hed gone through a lot of effort to get there.

 

[1olbull]

Having heard NO unusual or louder than normal noise, I have put on over 30K miles without issue so far.
I do figure to check them suckers this winter. Offered as just my story, not advise.

 

[BillB]

Going to check mine this winter. Thanks for the good advice on the ball ends.

If you really want to get fancy, Snap-On tools makes a 3mm ball end on a 3/8 drive socket head that is 6 inches in length. I found it to be just about perfect for getting the clamps that hold the intake plumbing to the throttle bodies loose. A regular ball end hex key will work fine too, but lacking one or the other, you are not getting the intake plumbing off short of dropping the engine out of it.

It is also a good time to inspect the little wires that connect to the coil terminals, pinch them down a little bit with a pair of needle nose pliers (LIGHTLY) and put a little bit of dielectric grease on them.

 

[1olbull]

If you really want to get fancy, Snap-On tools makes a 3mm ball end on a 3/8 drive socket head that is 6 inches in length. I found it to be just about perfect for getting the clamps that hold the intake plumbing to the throttle bodies loose. A regular ball end hex key will work fine too, but lacking one or the other, you are not getting the intake plumbing off short of dropping the engine out of it.

It is also a good time to inspect the little wires that connect to the coil terminals, pinch them down a little bit with a pair of needle nose pliers (LIGHTLY) and put a little bit of dielectric grease on them.

Happen to have a handy link for that Snap-On tooly?

 

[Fingers]

If you go to a RamAir or triple K&N's you will already have the plumbing off and be much easier.

 

[BillB]

I had a freind who checked his at 100,000kms (60,000 miles) were all still in spec. He adjusted one from memory just because it was little out and hed gone through a lot of effort to get there.

All of mine were dead nutz on with the exception of 2 exhaust valves that were a couple of thousands of an inch loose. I just let them be. A slightly loose exhaust isn't going to burn and will most likely get tighter over time.