Paint Can Rattle fix cost ?

Discussion in 'Common Issues' started by JoseyR3Wales, Aug 10, 2011.

  1. JoseyR3Wales

    JoseyR3Wales Constitutionalist

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    Local dealer is telling me that a new cam chain tensioner and labor to install is right at $300 bucks to fix the paint can rattle issue.

    Does that sound right to ANYONE out there in the ethos?
  2. pete.triumph

    pete.triumph .040 Over

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    To change the cam chain tensioner they need to take off the cam shaft cover so the cam shafts can be held in position while removing the tensioner body other wise the cam shafts can turn and chain will slip over sprocket losing your timing. they might as well check the valve clearance while doing that so to me that price sound about right .my 2006 r3 had a bit of cam noise i just removed the center nut and spring of the tensioner ( NOT THE TENSIONER BODY) used a philips screw drive to push on the tensioner plunger herd one click as the plunger took up the play, i also tapped the starter with out sating the engine to double check for play no more clicks and no more cam noise :D
  3. kmrmike

    kmrmike .020 Over

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    From other posts I've read concerning the paint can rattle, it seemed the rattle was from the front crankshaft gear failure. Maybe someone else can chime in. Hate to see you fix the tensioner and have the gear fail shortly after.
  4. Pig9r

    Pig9r Turbocharged

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    They did upgrade the guides, but the crank mounted cam gear was what was causing the issue. It think the key way in the gear was too shallow? Its been awhile so maybe someone else can confirm. The tensioner was also upgraded. You might have them check to make sure the new guides with work with the old tensioner.
  5. JoseyR3Wales

    JoseyR3Wales Constitutionalist

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    going to do new tensioner, and parts
  6. Bobby K

    Bobby K .020 Over

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    You might want to think twice before replacing with a stock cam chain tensioner. Wayne (Powertripp) was recommending a manual adjusting one made by APE. I have one I have not installed yet (waiting for winter) if you decide to go that way and are in a hurry. Do a search for cam chain tensioner or check out Powertripp's previous posts for more info.
    Good luck!
  7. warp9.9

    warp9.9 Turbocharged

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    Near as I can figure the guides have been changed 4 times since 04 in which they are back to the original aluminum die casted one. APE is in the middle of changing their tensioner so it does not do this to the guide
    [​IMG]

    which also does this
    [​IMG]
    note the middle guide is the same one the end blew apart on.

    Wayne Tripp will confirm!!!!
  8. Lester532

    Lester532 .060 Over

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    Scott, What was the cause of this ??:confused::confused:
  9. JoseyR3Wales

    JoseyR3Wales Constitutionalist

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    APC or APE, I would like to look into getting the after market part. Out of warranty anyway. Got a website?
  10. warp9.9

    warp9.9 Turbocharged

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    As I stated they are working on some changes to this. as the vibration padding on the guide get softer at engine temps. If you compile that with a few other things like the old style chain stretching at a faster rate then the ones they use now along with auto tensioner failures that occur, not monitoring the drop in the auto tensioner spring tension, or perhaps the head on the manual APE tensioner which is actually made for the GSXR 750 and 11 along with the bandit 1200 Which the head is actually smaller then the Triumph one, it could spell trouble. Its the little things that add up to a problem not always just one thing. I would let them work it out before I buy one. Its the little things that add up like if you go to stiffer valve springs. Don't get me wrong I am not saying anyones parts are junk just sometimes you have to look a little further to ilimnate problems rather then just relocating the same problem or making another one in the line. There is less chance of this happening with stock springs. If you think about it you will realize it boils down to creating slopp in the chain which can and will beat the snot out of things. If you have the aluminum guide which has less arc and creates more oportunity for the chain to jump the cam gear especiallly on the exhaust side where the guid is located. of course slop also allows the guide to beat against the tensioner which could pop it back off the ratchet teeth.

    Josey your rattle could just be the tensioner has a little more adjustment needed like maybe its dropped the 16mm and requires the spacer in it to increase the spring tension. After talking to a few Tech about the cam chain rattle of the old days and hearing how the keyway on the lower crank gear gets wider. I can only speculate that someof them might not of got fully heat treated and or tempered from the manufacture of the gear. QA departments rarely do 100% inspectioons on the lot of parts. The only way would be to Rockwell hardness test every gear to insure proper hardness. I have never had a bad lower gear to compare to a good one so I am only speculating what it could be.
    As for the auto tensioner I have an 06, 07 and a 2011 one and see know difference in them at all. In fact I bought the 2011 one just to see if it changed which it did not.

    I can definetly tell you the wider timing chain does in fact stretch more then the newer one sold now and since 08 which is when I noticed the change in manufacture and chain widths.

    I worked out a fix for the problem and only have a couple thousand miles on it testing. So far so good but only mileage can tell me me if it is going to work. It will be a while as I have found the next weak link when you go with excessive HP and torque. By excessive I mean when you get enough power that you can burry the speedo in 3rd gear and shift to 4th. So do not read into the next weak link poopoo as if you want to play you have to pay!!!
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