Occasional red light on high coolant temperature!!

Zen2osho

.040 Over
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
66
Location
Lagos Nigeria
Ride
Triumph rocket 3 Roadstar
I had the high coolant warning in dashboard coming up on 2-3 instances during a 20-25 minute traffic jam!! Ambient temperature was like 95 F. I pulled to the corner! switched of the engine and started again, it was ok, the warning went off. Iam using Mobil racing 4T 10 W40. Will it help in similar conditions if i change to 20W50 or 15W50???
I got 2200 miles on the dashboard and used to the power now, wanna go for derestricting in the first 3 gears ( 2012 R3R). Will de-restricting add to extra heating??? Suggestions Pls.
 
That should not happen. I've sat in heavy traffic in temps close to 115 with no warning light coming on. Did the fans come on? Did you check your coolant level once the bike cooled off? With that mileage your radiator cap should be fine. Has your cooling system been opened for any reason? If so, there may be air in the system, it should be bled.
 
If you're not sure if the fan came on, that should be your first check. You can just idle it and should hear it come on after 5 or 6 minutes. You could also hook up to TuneECU and see what temperature it's set to come on at. If you sit in traffic at high temperatures often you could always lower the temp for fan engagement. I've had my bike since 07, ridden in all different climates and traffic situations and have never had the temp light come on? Bleeding air out of the coolant system is wicked easy as well, and if it's been serviced lately, that could be your culprit.
 
Thanks . I will check the way u suggested to idle for 5-6 mins and check, but i doubt it will happen, it was totally harsh traffic for couple of miles stuck in the middle of the cars making conditions worse . I brought the bike brand new in June 2014 and didnt do any repair on cooling system. The idea of lowering the temp for fan engagement is good. I will try it , if it occurs again.

But anyone !! changing the grade of engine oil to 20 W 50?? can it work?? As the ambient temperature is high here.
 
I doubt the change in oil viscosity would have a significant effect on coolant temperatures. I would run the factory recommends. You will find very few people if any that have seen the coolant temp light come on and many run in similar or worse conditions than what you describe.

Your problem is most likely with the cooling system, not the oil. As suggested, check fans, check cold coolant level, bleed the system and possibly replace the radiator cap although a defective cap will usually result in coolant being purged through the overflow. If your level is low, that may have happened.
 
Using TuneECU you can check the fan operation. If the fan doesn't come on then check the relay and the wiring, and the fuse.
 
I am not sure if the Roadster lights are like the 09 and older but when the light comes on you have to look and see where the arrow is pointing to the oil or water symbol. My manuals stated 15W50 4 RT and you can also run 10W40 the manual you can down load from Ians signature states 10W40 or 15W50 in that order. the number in front has to do with cold whether so if your riding in 95 degree temps buying 20W50 only helps because of the 50 weight I would go with the 15W50/ What brand can and will be argued for many years to come. When I bought my bike Triumph was pushing Mobile1 now its caster oil but I think it has to do with money and sponsors as I do think both are a good oil. I run something different and am trying something new but the same brand. Otherwise I would most likely use what Nev has found to be good which is Motul 300V and a 15W50 grade. I read that it thins out about 1000 miles earlier but I believe like all the other oils I have tried it has to do with how hard you run the engine. I run mine hard and if she starts shifting harder at 4000 miles well I change the oil. As Nev has said good oil is cheaper then good engine parts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I agree you need to check you coolant system as it sound like its either low or you have some trapped air in it. air around the sensor is easy to accumulate especially if you casting plug drifted when they poured the head eliminating the bleeder pathway. Like my head on my engine. You should check that closely.
 
I run the Mobil 1 Racing 4T fully synthetic 10 w 40 ( as per the user manual:cool:), oil changed before 1500 miles. Anyway to eliminate the oil doubts Iam ordering the 15w50 or 20w50 (I dont know how easy to find that grade:eek:) as i found the gear shifting was smooth with mobil oil.
Instead of doing the fundamental trouble shooting with fan, coolant level and trapped air. i went straight :Dto the oil grade assuming my rocket is still new and all the parameters are perfect. I will start the trouble shooting from scratch.

This forum is great. I found answers to almost all the tech issues i presented!! keep it up guys:thumbsup::thumbsup:!

Please i need help for the derestriction first three gears with the Map etc ( 2012 Rocket 3 Roadster)! I dont want to upgrade to the next fast cruiser Ducati diavel :banghead:l!!
 
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