Ignition wiring bypass diagram.

Cobba

Supercharged
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
311
Location
Wodonga. Victoria. Australia.
Haven't had an issue as yet but am building an emergency kit for long trips.

Seems that there are only a few things that can leave you on the side of the road going nowhere that either you couldn't fix at the time cos you didn't know how, or have the bits.

A punctured tyre is the most obvious but not that common, but can be fixed easily enough with a plug kit.

Broken clutch or throttle cable. Either is a friend with a ute/ trailer, or a tow truck if you don't have the spares.

Failed ignition is the one that would be another ute/ trailer job or tow truck, but could be done on the run if you were prepared for it.


What I'm after is a wiring diagram showing what wires to cut/ join and switch.
Once I've got that I'll work out what bits I need and package them up.

Cheers, and thanks in advance.
 
As far as the Ignition Switch bypass there are two ways to do this. Single or double relay. Eastern Beaver sell a 2 relay kit which has been used by many on here. I preferred to go the 1 relay route which is similar to what Triumph issue for the 2010/2011 Roadster upgrade.

This link shows how I did my 2009 Classic - http://www.r3owners.net/general-tech-talk/11418-headlamp-mod-single-relay.html

There are other posts that show the EB kit install.

One of the essential mods to any pre 2012 model Rocket, imo.
 
Have done that.
What I'm looking for it what wires do I join together and stuff if the ignition fails while on a ride.
I've put the Rivco ignition relocation kit in my bike and the barrel feels quite hot sometimes when shutting it off on a hot day so I just want to be prepared for the worst.

Apparently you can join a few together and put a swithc in line of a few others and you're up and running again.
 
Have done that.
What I'm looking for it what wires do I join together and stuff if the ignition fails while on a ride.
I've put the Rivco ignition relocation kit in my bike and the barrel feels quite hot sometimes when shutting it off on a hot day.

Apparently you can join a few together and put a swithc in line of a few others and you're up and running again.

Sorry mate, misunderstood you.

I don't know what the relocation kit actually does other than the obvious different position - does it have a relay(s) with it or did you fit an EB kit as well?
 
Sorry mate, misunderstood you.

I don't know what the relocation kit actually does other than the obvious different position - does it have a relay(s) with it or did you fit an EB kit as well?

Relocating the key doesn't do much more than put it in a more practical position down on the left hand side just in front of the side cover.

Made my own headlight relay kit up. Would be pretty close to the EB kit I should think.
Either way, it takes the load off the ignition switch, but bike was 4 years old when it was done so no idea if the switch is already on it's way out or not.
 
I did mine on the side of the road with a toggle switch, electrical tape, wire nuts, about 2" ft of 14 gauge wire and a flask of Jim beam black label .......not pretty but rode over 6000 miles like that

Cut 2 1" ft lead wires from the 14 gauge wire and attach to toggle switch

Attach one lead to the blue/white on the harness

The other lead should be joined with the remaining wires in the harness with the exception of the orange leave it alone.

Run toggle switch out the bottom of the bearclaw

You now have a Kentucky hillbilly ignition. Flip switch and ride
 
I am impressed. How did you know what wires to toggle and jumper? Did the info flow from the flask?
 
I call Jeramey (NMROCKET) the flask help steady my hand during the surgery :D


Remind me to never let you take out one of my kidney's:D:D

Gothy.
Thanks for the pic. Exactly what I was looking for.

Do need to ask tho.
Gothlanders diagram discription and scewherd's verbal conflict if I'm reading it right.
scewherd's reads to me as tho 1 white/blue wire feeds power to all the others with the exception of the orange, which doesn't get anything.

Gothy's pairs 2 lots together individually and the white/blue feeds 2 others thru switch.

Any opinions on the variations, or will either work.
 
I have used the method as seen in the diagram, it works ok. The other jumpers power the indicators and brake-lights from memory, so these are on all the time which is ok. This diagram was supplied by GreyWolf so thanks go to him for his time and effort to do this.
 
Back
Top