SKIP thanks for the confirmation, can the "tiny screws " be picked up with a magnet? or stuffed rag be the only safe procedure?
I will attempt this major endeavor in the fall ,I do not want to screw a riding season with some mistakes.
today I made a small addition to the bike. to keep the battery charged up without removing the saddle in my unheated garage ,
I mounted a dual female electric outlet on the black plastic tab connected to the battery with a fused line just behind the key saddle release plug , so when in the garage from my battery tender I plug two male connectors straight into the female dual plug and presto the tender charges the battery . I do not have to remove the saddle with the stupid ring and key fiasco procedure anymore .. and as a bonus if ever I need a boost I carry a spare electric line that will fit the mounted outlet with clamps at the other end and any battery will give an easy way to boost. I will make picture if anybody cares to see the setup.
The primary throttle plates below the secondaries remain closed with the closed throttle so unless you open the throttle manually the screws will just sit on the plate below until picked up with a magnet should you drop them and they get past the secondary plates you are removing. I avoided all of this just by holding a magnet near the screws as I was removing them. I magnatized the screwdriver by passing it over a magnet several times just to be safe, and they never came off the screw driver. You would have to screw up on several levels to actually drop a screw into the engine. No worries. With the secondaries removed and a GiPro installed, its like a whole different bike without the need to change tunes. The bike just thinks its running in 5th gear all the time. Its quite a suprise to have all the power in 1-3 gears you have in 4-5th. That little change alone is enough for some.
The standard battery tender uses the same pig tail plug as the odyssey charger, so if you ever decide to change over to the PC625 for cold weather starting, you can use the same plug that you already installed. The (+) and (-) covered DC charge plug also has many accessories available like extensions and cigarette lighter plugs (both male and female) for either lighting your smokes or jump starting from a car, handy. I carry a 10' extension and aligator clips rolled up up in my emergency kit just in case I need a jump start (no looking around for jumper cables). Heated winter clothing can be made to plug right into it as well, thats why I routed mine to come out on the right side of the bike just from behind the side panel, gives you a place to tuck it up and under when not in use as well. The round "blank" on the left side makes a great place for a cig lighter plug as well, wired dirrect to the battery allows for those "lighter to lighter" jump start gadgets some carry in their roadside emergency tool kits.
Now as far as installing the Triple filters .... I agree with everything posted on the how to sticky thread except one little detail. The air temp sensor should be placed back into the airflow rather than just sticking a filter over the end. This takes lengthening the harness a little and cutting a hole in the first filter large enough to insert the probe, but its not hard to do. I cut the hole and used a hot glue gun around the edges and inserted the probe while the glue was still soft. This made a "grommet" shaped like the probe and also makes it removable for filter cleaning. The purpose of the temp sensor is to measure the intake air temp, letting it lie on the valve cover with a little filter over it defeats the purpose. The sensor does not "suck" air, it is passive and air is intended to flow over it like sticking your head in a wind tunnel. So by just putting a filter over the end does protect it from dirt, the temps continue to build from engine heat.
I'm running a dyno tuned PCIII with TORs, Triple K&N's, GiPro and secondaries removed, the numbers coming from the rear tire rival that of the new Roadster specs at the crank. So I have NO complaints how it all turned out. It also turned 10.8 seconds @129 mph at Cecil County Raceway in Maryland in the 1/4 mile fully dressed (extra tall windscreen and saddlebags) with me (an amateur) at the helm. I see no reason an experienced bike drag racer couldn't shave off the half second I spent sitting at the line to go below 10.5. Full blown drag lengthened busa's are only in the mid to high 9's, I actually was ahead of those bikes up to the 1/8th mile (where they promptly passed me by).
I'm sure the same can be accomplished with Tuneboy, I just didn't want to change the ECM program for eventual resale. This way I can put it back to stock whenever I want should the second owner not subscribe to my need for speed.