Help With Mystery Sump Fitting

[dobro]

I'm changing the oil now on my 2011 R3 Touring. I was removing what I thought was the rear sump drain plug but when I got it out I realized I'd taken out a headless hex screw in line with and about 3 inches ahead of the rear sump plug (I couldn't see well because the background was sunlight). Now I don't know what the correct torque is for that mystery fitting because I don't know what it is. Some oil did come out after it. There are 2 of those fittings on the bottom of the sump. I'll appreciate help.

 

[dobro]

Mate the one you took out is the filler , the lower one is the drain, here's a thread on do's and donts with that particular bolt. Personally i dont use a torque wrench when doing mine , i do up finget tight then a little pinch hardly any pressure and never had a leak.

http://www.r3owners.net/threads/drain-plug-final-drive-unit.2505/

Thanks, but I'm not changing the bevel box oil I'm changing the engine oil.

 

[idk]

Here's a manual, it may help.

 

[mully95]

Just for thread purposes the manual is for classics/standards from 2005-2009. The Roadster 2010- to present has a different sump with different drain locations. If you go to Bike Bandit and browse their OEM parts section there is two sumps for one year bike. The one that I know of is the 2010 model. You have to use the engine number to find the correct sump for the bike.

 

[dobro]

Here's a manual, it may help.

Thanks, IDK. The manual is the first place I went. In Chapter 9 I only see the sump plugs and oil plug identified on the diagram. If those 2 headless screws are in it I can't find them. Maybe they're set screws but I still can't find the torque for them or locate them on a diagram. I must be looking in the wrong chapter.

 

[mully95]

Incorporating a new washer, refit the oil tank

drain plug, tightening it to 25 Nm.

4. Position the oil drain pan towards the front of the

engine, remove the front sump drain plug and

allow the oil to drain. This will drain the oil

remaining in the front part of the sump.

5. Incorporating a new washer, refit the front sump

plug, tightening it to 25 Nm.

6. Position the oil drain pan towards the rear of the

engine, remove the rear sump plug and allow the

remaining oil to drain. This will drain any oil

remaining in the rear part of the sump.

7. Incorporating a new washer, refit the rear sump

plug. Tighten to 25 Nm.

 

[HansO]

the two headless bolt you refer to are situated mid way along oil galley ways from the pick up points (also to spots where the sump plugs are) to the pump why they are there is a mystery but I would replace them with a smear of gasket sealant only on the upper half so none goes in and do them up firm till they are not quite flush with sump as I not sure of torque settings for them but the sealant once set should hold them there

 

[HansO]

Here is a shot from under my bike showing the bolts and how far they protrude from the sump

 

[HansO]

oh yeah! .....by the way please excuse the crap under there I went thru some recently wetted roadworks so the bikes a mess

 

[dobro]

Here is a shot from under my bike showing the bolts and how far they protrude from the sump

That's the bugger in the foreground!