Fitting new TPS

hogweed

Supercharged
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
381
Location
Warminster Wilts .UK
Ride
Triumph Rocket III 2004
Just ordered a new TPS is there anything i need to know before unplugging and replacing the old one and fitting the new one .cheers
 
Also I have found mine to last longer by cutting a .010" shim to fit under the bolt down area. I soda can works well if you do not have shim stock :D
Warp

I am still having the same issues, just redid the ISCV again. Set the TPS to .60V, then the stepper nut to .72V and let it do its thing.
Then reset adaptive
Then 12min tune

When I fire the bike up afterwards and on the tune ecu diag screen, it shows .67V
Throttle bodies are sync'd, Idle set at 950rpm.
Bike will fire, run up to about 1100rpm for a few seconds then drop to about 950 and then it would bounce between 850 and 1050.

Any thoughts
Thanks
 
Warp

I am still having the same issues, just redid the ISCV again. Set the TPS to .60V, then the stepper nut to .72V and let it do its thing.
Then reset adaptive
Then 12min tune

When I fire the bike up afterwards and on the tune ecu diag screen, it shows .67V
Throttle bodies are sync'd, Idle set at 950rpm.
Bike will fire, run up to about 1100rpm for a few seconds then drop to about 950 and then it would bounce between 850 and 1050.

Any thoughts
Thanks
Dave the reason you are getting .67 is because with the bike running the Throttle is not completely closed. it is only closed in ISCV reset so you can set closed TPS voltage to .6 which is when the stepper motor is completly backed off. As for why it is serching for a idle (bouncing up and down) I will have to give it some thought. But make sur eteh throttle bodies are completly down in the mounts and secured with the hose clamps so you not gettign a vacuum leak down there. if its bouncing around I wonder how you were able to balance the throttle bodies?
 
Dave the reason you are getting .67 is because with the bike running the Throttle is not completely closed. it is only closed in ISCV reset so you can set closed TPS voltage to .6 which is when the stepper motor is completly backed off. As for why it is serching for a idle (bouncing up and down) I will have to give it some thought. But make sur eteh throttle bodies are completly down in the mounts and secured with the hose clamps so you not gettign a vacuum leak down there. if its bouncing around I wonder how you were able to balance the throttle bodies?
Warp it bounches for about 15-20 seconds then it settles in on idle, then I can adjust the throttle bodies. working with Speedy on it now, trying a different tune and some adjustments. Yea after I posted that I realized that it had to be higher in order to function.

Thanks
 
Just ordered a new TPS is there anything i need to know before unplugging and replacing the old one and fitting the new one .cheers

Hi hogweed,

Here's something I hope might save folk some grief. When resetting the the ISCV the Triumph manual tells you to turn in the nut on the end of the stepper motor's threaded shaft until there is a 0.050" clearance between the 'paddle' of the stepper motor and the roller bearing / lever on which it bears, which is itself connected to the shaft that runs all the way through the injector bodies. That shaft has the primary TPS at one end and the secondary TPS at the other. The reason they tell you to get that clearance is so that the stepper motor is not pushing on the linkage which rotates that shaft, - which would give you a false reading when you try to set the primary TPS voltage.

Now, on my 2009 R111 standard it's almost impossible to get any gap, never mind 0.050" because the spring on the stepper motor shaft binds before any gap is achieved. When the spring binds there is a good chance that the little plastic triangular piece that is located on the end of the motor's threaded shaft, and is pushed by the spring onto the throttle bodies' shaft actuating lever, will break. DAMHIK. You can't buy that piece on its own - you have to buy the whole stepper motor.

If you find that you can't get a gap without the spring starting to bind you can remove the nut, washers (2), triangular plastic piece and the spring from the stepper motor shaft and simply flip the 'paddle' out of the way. When you turn on the ignition the stepper motor will frantically try to find its correct position, but you can stop it trying by simply pushing the bar that the stepper motor normally pushes, a little clockwise (as seen looking from the front to rear of the bike).

Hope this helps.

Mark
 
Warp it bounches for about 15-20 seconds then it settles in on idle, then I can adjust the throttle bodies. working with Speedy on it now, trying a different tune and some adjustments. Yea after I posted that I realized that it had to be higher in order to function.

Thanks
Dave does she still surge after the bike is warmed up? Also if the bike is warmed up and you shut her down a restart her does she still raise the rpm ,settle back down and then start surging again?
 
Hi hogweed,

Here's something I hope might save folk some grief. When resetting the the ISCV the Triumph manual tells you to turn in the nut on the end of the stepper motor's threaded shaft until there is a 0.050" clearance between the 'paddle' of the stepper motor and the roller bearing / lever on which it bears, which is itself connected to the shaft that runs all the way through the injector bodies. That shaft has the primary TPS at one end and the secondary TPS at the other. The reason they tell you to get that clearance is so that the stepper motor is not pushing on the linkage which rotates that shaft, - which would give you a false reading when you try to set the primary TPS voltage.

Now, on my 2009 R111 standard it's almost impossible to get any gap, never mind 0.050" because the spring on the stepper motor shaft binds before any gap is achieved. When the spring binds there is a good chance that the little plastic triangular piece that is located on the end of the motor's threaded shaft, and is pushed by the spring onto the throttle bodies' shaft actuating lever, will break. DAMHIK. You can't buy that piece on its own - you have to buy the whole stepper motor.

If you find that you can't get a gap without the spring starting to bind you can remove the nut, washers (2), triangular plastic piece and the spring from the stepper motor shaft and simply flip the 'paddle' out of the way. When you turn on the ignition the stepper motor will frantically try to find its correct position, but you can stop it trying by simply pushing the bar that the stepper motor normally pushes, a little clockwise (as seen looking from the front to rear of the bike).

Hope this helps.

Mark

Ok Mark I am going to correct a few things and I hope this does not come off as sarcastic. SOem might not make sense because or the Diladid and Norco I am on since I just got out of the hospital. I think soem of what you wrote might be a typo so here goes. the primary TPS an dsecondary TPS are not on the same shaft. Primary is on the lower throttle plate shaft secondary TPS is on the upper secondary throttle plate shaft so they can and do move independant. The clearance between the 'paddle' of the stepper motor and the roller bearing / lever on which it bears, which is itself connected to the shaft that runs all the way through the injector bodies is actually .5 MM which is a skosh smaller the .020" not .05" which would be a little more then twice the gap. This would then show abor .25 volt rise when you do the ISCV reset if you had it at that large of a gap. On the extra throttle bodies I have I was able to totally compress the spring on the stepper motor and had just about .100" gap at the paddle sio You should look at yours because ther just might be something wrong with the way it is assembled. If Triumph techs can install a roller bearing in backward on the output drive then they can make other mistakes also.
I do like your way of bypassign the stepper motor although I would not do that to mine. The TTS kits had us remove the stepper motor along with the Map sensor but I installed mine back on so it would idle prooperly and not throw the idiot lights on. Also without the ability to retract the stepper motor you cannot properly set the Primary TPS unit. Yest you can adjust the throttle plate stop screw to get the bike to idle but this is not where .6 volts is . Once you move the screw and try to set the TPS your setting zero throttle to a partially open throttle and if you start having idle problems and move the stop screw more before you figure out you TPS is bad you will then set zero throttle at a position where the throttle is open even mor ethen the first time you set it without a Stepper motor on it. This means slowly you will create more error between where the ecu thinks the throttle bodies are on the map and where they actually are. Copmoundig errors can eventually cause more problems then you bargin for. These error will also creep into proper location of the L Tables reading on the map as for the percetage points for the F to L switch over.
Just my two cents worth not back to sulking about the lady who tried to crush me on my sprint with her van :(
Oh and time for more Pain killers anyway. Which by the way might be why I have soem typo errors in this post as I am a bad enough typist when I am sober:D
 
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