Clutch and output shaft issues.

meanchuck

.060 Over
Joined
Dec 27, 2007
Messages
102
Location
PA
First off my 2005 R3 is stock (the engine anyway) has 35,000 miles and had the output shaft bearing replaced at 13,000 miles. It feels like the universal joint in the drive shaft is bad (but it isn't) and it it is very annoying to ride at low rpm because of the jerky feel from the extra drive line slack. I am assuming it's a weakened spring in the torsional dampener but I can't be sure, anyone else have a similar issue?

My other issue is my clutch (which may be contributing to my other problem) if you try to let the clutch lever out slowly it is very jerky and can me a pain in the a$$ at low speed in a parking lot. Also I tried to adjust the clutch and the lever travels more than it should, if I adjust it one way it will slip and if adjust it the other it won't fully disengage. I am assuming the lifter and shaft are worn which in turn gives me my longer than normal clutch pull. I plan on putting in a new clutch, springs (both Barnett), lifter and shaft. Do I need to upgrade the pressure plate and bearing as well?

When I do the clutch I want to do everything at once and have all the parts here and ready to install so my bike isn't sitting apart for a month or two waiting. I figure once this is taken care of I can see if the drive line slack problem is better or worse and then figure out what to do about that. Thoughts?
 
My 2013/14 is in the shop right now, for I suspect, the out put shaft bearing. (7,300 miles) And the only complaint I have about my Rocket from day one, is the "slop" in the drive train. It had something like 24 miles on it, when I bought it. So I don't know if those 24 miles was from people trying to do wheelies, or what? And for the life of me, I can't understand how that damper spring thing works? Does it compress end to end, or does it twist? I know after I picked up a bad vibration, if I put it in first gear, engine off, and rocked it back and forth, there was about 2 to 3 inches of "slop", and a clunking, loose, noise from the area where the U-joint is. Also my final drive (2nd one by the way), was showing signs of not being happy, moist with oil, enough to be collecting dust/dirt. Have not heard from dealer yet.
 
Chuck I've had that clutch problem for a long time , exactly as you described it. Been told it's the rivets that hold the clutch basket together ... they are loose. I replaced my clutch plates and springs with Barnetts a couple of years ago. The springs were super stiff at first but softened up over time. I've been told the clutch in the Rocket is the same as a Suzuki Hyabusa. Can't shine any light on final drive spring problem.
 
Well maybe I'll just have to tear it a part and just look for anything suspect and then put it back together and order what I need, I didn't want to tear it apart twice but I guess it's better than buying a bunch of parts I may not need.
 
I myself do not like the barnett clutch as they heat up the tend to drag. I preferr the MTC fibers to any so far and other then breaking a couple tangs off two of the fibers when I exploded the internal hub on mine they seem to be great fibers. As for the rivets MTC has got new baskets in which the rivets spun when they went to drill them out to install their forged basket for a fellow Rockt owner so rivets being loose is a possibility. I love their forged basket but if you not adding a lot of horse power I would say its not needed. The only baskets that have been detroyed were on turbo bikes.
 
Agree Warp .. were I to replace clutch plates and springs now I'd go the MTC , from what I've learnt on here.
 
Agree Warp .. were I to replace clutch plates and springs now I'd go the MTC , from what I've learnt on here.
Yes the MTC springs are 20% stronger then OEM ones. I myself use the Carpenter Springs that came with my components I bought from them. Before that I used ones supplied by Neville Lush Racing :D
 
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