dobro

Supercharged
Joined
Dec 29, 2012
Messages
397
Location
Florida, USA
Ride
2011 R3T
After riding about 15 minutes I stopped at a store for 20 minutes and when I turned key --no sign of life at all. Tried turning key 8 or 10 more times then it suddenly lit up and started fine. Battery was charged 2 days ago (it quickly fully charged) and terminals cleaned & fuses replaced because the same problem happened about a week ago when I thought it was the ecm relay. I'm assuming it's a poor ground connection. On a 2011 what else could it be? I thought the ignition overheating problem had been cured by 2011--am I wrong?
 
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I don't think the ignition switch problem has ever truly been fixed? Triumph did do an update, but my understanding is it is still insufficient? I could be wrong though?

Do you have a headlight relay of any type installed (eastern beaver or similar)? Although from the sound of your issue it seems more likely to be a ground.
 
It sounds more like a grounding problem. I replaced the negative battery cable with a bigger gauge wire and also installed a secondary starter relay. Completely solved the problem.
 
I don't think the ignition switch problem has ever truly been fixed? Triumph did do an update, but my understanding is it is still insufficient? I could be wrong though?

Do you have a headlight relay of any type installed (eastern beaver or similar)? Although from the sound of your issue it seems more likely to be a ground.

No EB or similar.
 
It sounds more like a grounding problem. I replaced the negative battery cable with a bigger gauge wire and also installed a secondary starter relay. Completely solved the problem.

Where is the ground wire that would be causing this problem? Thanks, Cardinal and Tdragger.
 
Hi have had same problem, after having bike towed ignition switch changed ($1000) the problem happened again. The problem is the white wire in a connection under the fuel tank where the ignition wires from switch meets the loom. Have also put relays for headlight. Problem fixed
 
When you take the seat off, follow the negative battery cable down behind the left side cover to where it connects to the engine block. The R3T may be a bit different from the Standard that I have but the principle is the same. Either run a parallel cable or replace the stock cable with a much bigger one. Look in the Rocket III Resources forum for a discussion on the subject.
 
Hi have had same problem, after having bike towed ignition switch changed ($1000) the problem happened again. The problem is the white wire in a connection under the fuel tank where the ignition wires from switch meets the loom. Have also put relays for headlight. Problem fixed
I also had the same problem, trailered it home and she started right up but knowing the ignition problem went ahead and drilled out the ignition mounting bolts then used a easy out to remove the screws. Checked out the wiring on the ignition switch but could find no problems with the solder joints so I put it back together. Started right up, but then I finished by mounting the Bearclaw. Went to take her for a ride and NOTHING! So I went backwards taking her apart and checking to see if there was any power at each step. As soon as I touched the ignition switch connector I got power. The white wire was slightly browned but no melting that I could see inside of the connector or outside towards the wires. I went ahead and jumped the white wire using a bullet connector so I could still take it apart and I soldered the jump points on each side before taping them up. Have not had a problem since and no I still have not installed an EB kit. I did order an ignition switch before I realized what was going on so I have it on stand by just in case.
 
I also had the same problem, trailered it home and she started right up but knowing the ignition problem went ahead and drilled out the ignition mounting bolts then used a easy out to remove the screws. Checked out the wiring on the ignition switch but could find no problems with the solder joints so I put it back together. Started right up, but then I finished by mounting the Bearclaw. Went to take her for a ride and NOTHING! So I went backwards taking her apart and checking to see if there was any power at each step. As soon as I touched the ignition switch connector I got power. The white wire was slightly browned but no melting that I could see inside of the connector or outside towards the wires. I went ahead and jumped the white wire using a bullet connector so I could still take it apart and I soldered the jump points on each side before taping them up. Have not had a problem since and no I still have not installed an EB kit. I did order an ignition switch before I realized what was going on so I have it on stand by just in case.

It looks like the white wire from the switch goes to the white/blue on the harness according to the wiring diagram on the R3T. Is that what you found?
 
Always keep in mind that the R3 Touring is largely a different bike than the R3 everything-else. In other words, can't just assume that the same ailments will happen for the same reasons.
 
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