RE: GEAR SENSOR MOD

I went to Radio Shack to get a 700 ohm resistor. Thought it would be simple. Well they don't have a 700 ohm one, but they do have a 1/2 watt 680 ohm +/- 5%. That would be a range from 646 to 714 ohms, will that do? Then the sales guy there asked what wattage did I need, cause they can come in 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2, 5 watt...ect. I searched all the past posts on the subject, but never seen anyone post any wattage info.

EDIT: 9-2-2007 On page 2 I have included Pics and How-To Information

The 1/2 watt 680 ohm should work for you.

I haven't done that mod myself, I went to Tuneboy route. And it's been a while since I have read anything about it. After playing with Tuneboy I would make sure you install a switch to by-pass the resistor because neutral uses a totally different ignition map than 1st - 5th does. It could potentially cause some idle issues?

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There is no replacement for displacement.

The black with white stripe wire Is for neutral and the light..Dont cut It and everthing works fine..Referance Page 11.21 item 7 & 5.....Jack

Thanks for the help!!!!!! I'll be working on this mod asap. Let you all know how it turns out.

How did it work for you Jack?

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There is no replacement for displacement.

Well between the PClll getting a map and the resister mod, my arms are about a half inch longer.Stayed out acting like a dam fool so long I ache everywhere from hanging on. Much more fun to ride and feels lighter because of the response.Still fine tuning with the buttons but no poping anywhere.I'am just about convinced Its the altitude that keeps It from poping..Ive had It to rich and to lean but no poping..Was looking for crotch rockets all day..Gotta get some rest. Thanks for all the help Brian.. Jack andcoke

Ok, I'm intrigued as you are mentioning this mod and tuneboy in the same sentence - so what does this mod do ?

http://www.r3owners.com/viewtopic.php?t=2383 This should explain It but If you have tuneboy you dont need it..Its for cheap skates like me...Jack

Damn, I wish I'd been listening... Thanks ole Mr Cheap

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believing the US major mangled media is akin to an existence of a mushroom

I finished the resistor mod and I did make it switchable. Went for a ride with the switch OFF (gear sensor active) just to see if it was running like before the mod. Then carefully, while going slow in 2nd gear, I switched it to ON (680 ohm resistor).

It kept running as if nothing had changed which was a good thing! I was praying that it would'nt just conk-out and coast off the roadway dead. I rode it around for a few more miles thinking next the "check engine light" was going to come on but it didn't...whew!

EDIT: OK, Now that I've had a few weeks to play with the "switch" I can honestly say it does make a difference! I think my first test of the mod was flawed, cause the back tire was slipping. It was dam near 105 degrees that day, and the road was 150+.
I found out it was working by holding the bike in 1st 2nd or 3rd gear at a constant RPM of about 2500 and flipping the switch back and forth. It is very noticable when doing this. And I found out that with the switch"ON", that I have to be very careful, while my wife is on the back, cause it will now pull the front-end skyward. I leave it in the "OFF" position while she's on the back.
A 7% boost for $10 bucks! Love It!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cost me a total of $10 USD for switch, wire, heat shrink and resistor.

On Page 2 I have included Pics and How-To Info