2012 Roadster with 8,900 miles with a clutch problem!

1olbull said:

Scott,
I looked up NCY Motorsports in San Marcos and while it looks as though they sell Triumphs there is NO parts fiche for the brand.
Is this the correct joint?

Click to expand...

Yep I just tell Andy what I need and the vin number of the bike and he gets the prices and part numbers for me. if there is any confusion he e-mails me the parts break down drawing and I confirm what I want. Andy is great to work with.

andy@ncyyamaha.com

If you would like to bring it to me I will be more than happy to do it for you.long way though.

warp9.9 said:

Yep I just tell Andy what I need and the vin number of the bike and he gets the prices and part numbers for me. if there is any confusion he e-mails me the parts break down drawing and I confirm what I want. Andy is great to work with.
andy@ncyyamaha.com

Click to expand...

Thanks, I shall make note of this and give him a try on my next order.

Back to topic:

I put the bike on the lift yesterday to check out this "slipping clutch" issue a little more and here's what I found that may be a causal factor: The clutch cable itself seems very tight and maybe binding in it's sheath AND the actuator lever at the clutch wasn't completely returning to it fully closed position.

I adjusted the top free play at the lever to be about in the middle of it's travel and then adjusted the lower adjustment for the correct "free play" at that point.

I also lubed the cable ends and tried to force WD40 into the cable sheath and these things seemed to help free the cable.

If I fully pull in the clutch lever now and very quickly release it, the lower lever arm fully closes so maybe this will work---I sure hope so!

I'm also doing a full service as far as oil and oil filter and final drive while it's on the lift.

I did find that I don't have an 8mm allen wrench around so I'm getting one today when I get the other service stuff.

When I took the stock Triumph oil filter off and drained it into a clear beaker, I didn't see any contaminates at all. I was expecting to see some FIBER from worn clutch plates. None so far but will report on the situation after the oil drain.

My first Triumph, a new 2010 Scrambler was completely trouble free as have been ALL of my Mainly JAP bikes, 5 BMW's and 2 Ducati's so I'm HOPING that this Rocket 3 will have been a prudent purchase????????

Sam

Great Sam, I do not like the return spring on the lifter shaft and left it out the last time I did the clutch. I thee just added a external spring I bought from Ace Hardware to do the job. This also makes it easier to install the cover because you do not have to worry about pre-wind on the lifter shaft. It was just a experiment that seemed to work well for me. you can see it on the cable.

I had aproblem with a slipping clutch a few years back. It turned out to be the fully synth oil that i had put in . A simple change to semi synth cured the problem.Got 42000miles on her now and clutch good. Hope you get it sorted and back on road .

Porky said:

I did find that I don't have an 8mm allen wrench around so I'm getting one today when I get the other service stuff.

Click to expand...

Two of the drain plugs need Torx bits. You can get by with Allen keys, but it is not the right tool. Harbor Freight, Sears, and all those sort of places carry sets if you don't have them. There are quite a few Torx bolts on the RIII, so they are worth having.

might be that the old guy slipped the clutch half way through 1st gear (afraid of stalling it).
it looks like u are getting the advice u r looking for.

All my oil drain plugs are allen metric 8 mm. the only torx I can thin of is the two bolts holding the upper radiator mounts. 8 mm on all the cover bolts, the lower radiator mount and the clutch lifter shaft arm and the water pump bolts. I think the clutch spring bolts were 10 mm or that's what I put in mine when I went to the longer bolts. That's what I can remember off the top of my head.

8 mm = 5/16