The mechanical flasher relay on the R3 is a 3-pole type and fits into a square recepticle under the right side cover. While replacing the mechanical unit with an eletronic unit (in support of an LED signal conversion), I did not pay attention to the orientation of the blades. From the di-electric grease pattern, it looks like the original installations was like this:

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Can anyone confirm this? This view is from sitting on the right side of the bike and facing the right side cover. The blade shown on the left is towards the rear of the bike.

I'm not getting the desired results from the electronic flasher unit so I'm trying to determine what I've done wrong or if I have a defective flasher.

More info...

With the electronic flasher installed and the stock signals or the LED signals installed, activating the turn signal with the engine off while result in the appropriate lights to come on but will not flash. If the engine is running, the turn signal fuse blows.

Looked at mine and that is how the blades are arranged and that is how mine plugs in. Did you just install the signals then put the flasher in or did the signals work with the mechanical flasher but just flashed fast?

Ok I just saw your post in the turn signal mod thread. The link I had posted to Dennis Kirk was originally for a 3 pole IC type of flasher as I had labeled it. Now the link goes to a 2 pole. I bet that is the problem. You should be able to get one at an auto parts store. Sorry, the post is 2 1/2 years old. I should probably go through some of those and make sure everything is linked correctly.

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There is no replacement for displacement.

Damn, no joy in the neighborhood. Plugged the mechanical flasher back in and all the signals flash appropriately, just at a faster pace. This tells me that my wiring is OK.

I even went by an auto parts store and picked up another 3 prong electronic flasher relay. Installed it and again no joy. No signal lights at all.

Looks like my next option is to purchase a load equalizer. Kury makes one that works with mechanical relays that looks like my best option. My concern is another product that Kury makes saying that you need because of the single signal indicator in the tach. Thoughts anyone?

LEDs require a load equalizer, as specified by BackOff. I'll wager you've blown another fuse ("no lights at all").

I've a "BackOff" signal/stop/running light modulator with the load equalizer. This pair of electronics devices, each are a 1/2 again larger than a small box of stick matches, is suitable for LED conversion and must be installed with the load equalizer if LEDs conversion is also undertaken. I don't have LEDs but have the equalizer in place should I go there. There was no need for another device for the instrument panel signal indicator with this arrangement.

The benefit of this pair of devices should be apparent. But just in case there is confusion:
The rear turn signals are on at dim-lit illumination (perhaps at 66%) to serve as running lights. Upon breaking they are illuminated at 100%, while the turn signaling works normally. Now if I could find proper lens replacements I'd be in agreement with all States laws. But since I'm not, I'll simply have to show the concern in my eye should I encounter an issue.

Heretic-

I put Kuryakyn bullets with drop in LED blubs and all I needed was a solid state flasher to get them flashing at a normal rate. My front signals are still stock.

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There is no replacement for displacement.

All you need is a very small flat blade screwdriver and go in from the top of your relay plug in on the bike and very carefully switch the orange and black wires and then plug in your 2 pole relay and it should work. you can get the total instructions from the clear alternitives web site Installing flasher unit this is what i did for my 2 pole relay and it made my led turnsignals flash at the slower rate i hope this helps you out.

Thanks for the tip, Speed. I'll give it a try. I've got the mechanical in right now and it's flashing fast. I went ahead and ordered load equalizers but I'd like to avoid them since they heat up so bad.

I made a small harness to try different plugs on the 2 electronic flasher relays that I bought and neither would work. Looks like I'll have to resort to the load equalizer route. Not a problem.

Here's my 95% finished product. Performed the plate relocate to show off the darkside tire. Biggest challenge was trying to find a good turn signal solution. I wanted to go with an LED array around the bottom edge of the fender but couldn't find a workable solution. I decided to go with some small angle brackets off the lower plate bolts and mount some mini-LEDs. They are really bright when lit but clear otherwise.



The upper plate mounts are post-type white LEDs to illuminate the plate.



I just have to mount load equalizers and clean up the wiring and it will be done!! Finally!!

All done!! Mounted the Kury Load Equalizers tonight and flashers work like they used to, only much brighter. Kury kit is small and quick to install.